I love it when someone is walking the talk…literally. He does his at 0400. You? When do you do your ruck walk?
REPRIEVE UPDATE: The Nation, having been granted a reprieve (unknown longevity) due to the election of a non-Marxist Chief Executive, is now able to start on getting their collective shit together, preparedness wise. Read the whole thing, including the scenario, and replace with your own as you see fit. It is still a valid 10 week program; hopefully, if you’re a newbie to prepping and survivalism, you won’t go back to sleep now. That could prove fatal, situation dependent, not only for you, but your family. Careful consideration is called for.
I’ve gotten a consistent number of requests to re-post this for folks just starting to understand what they might need to consider. Feel free to add any other helpful comments for the brand new folks.
Last update: 17 October 2016.
The only update I can add to this is during the ensuing time, no matter who wins on 8 November, there’s sure to be violent fall out to either forward an agenda by the Transnational Globalist Marxists or to attempt to cause an outright civil war that would necessitate the suspension of Constitutional protections (what’s left of them) according to the powers that STILL BE. That being the case, YOU, yes, YOU have until 20 January to get yourself and your family’s ‘shit’ together. Follow this outline if you can, and add something else in it: Study and training. Across the board. First priority: First Aid/Medical training. Then food storage. Then survival. Then tactics & weapons. This is not contradictory. Yes, you need to know how to effectively use a weapon, but you also need, desperately, how to tend to wounds, injuries, infections and disease not typically seen in a ‘normal’ setting. You need to know how to purify water; how to put up food so it will last, you need communications training, you need intelligence training (Culper’s got the best out there that I’ve seen, but you look around and find out for yourself).
Bottom line: Your entire existence from now until 21 January needs to be one of study, exercise, training, study, frugal purchasing, setting up your home or ‘hidey hole’ so your family can make it, and so on.
Remember, there’s an old saying that I live by: “There are no victims, only volunteers….”
H/T to a commenter, “Doug” @ 10/6, 7:07, over at Wirecutter’s place, for the inspiration to update this post again .
It’s been over
6 8 10 years since I wrote this under my since retired ‘nom de guerre’, and a very good friend of mine at Western Rifle Shooter’s Association again asked me if I’d mind updating it (same one who asked last time). This is a good base plan for folks you might know just waking up to the fact that things are spinning faster in the vortex than ever before, and this might be the best last chance for them to get themselves in gear. Feel free to add or take away as your situation and local area conditions may require. This is by no means the best or only plan, rather, one that may help someone with no knowledge or skills. There are other good perspectives on this subject out there, and they shouldn’t be discounted. Much like this one.
You may be thinking, “WORST case?? What could POSSIBLY get any worse than this?? There’s nothing I can do. Things being the way they are, it’s basically over…all we can do is wait for the hammer to fall.” Well, for one thing, that’s not true! Many folks just like you don’t agree with or believe that perspective in the slightest! There’s a lot you can do! And, if this plan helps get you thinking of what you can do instead of what you can’t do, we all might just benefit from your action! In fact, if enough folks begin to think about what they can do, we just might avert the “worst case” and many more of us may live through these ‘interesting times’ that are certainly headed our way! So, while you’re reading this, keep that thought in mind, ok?
This plan is divided into two parts: The items required and the timetable to do it in. Remember, prudent people see danger coming and prepare while the foolish do nothing (or just sit at their keyboard and ENDLESSLY BITCH about how terrible things are) and suffer for it. To put us all on an equal footing for the case presented, let’s get ready to plan by using the following scenario as a back drop:
To be sure, ten weeks, especially today, when national and world tensions increasing by the hour, can seem to be a very, very long time in terms of ‘getting prepared/trained/fit/mentally ready’ to protect and defend your family, neighborhood, community and country from marauding apocalypse zombies coming from whatever direction or source you care to focus on. For now, rather than looking at a fictional futuristic even, let’s look at what’s happened in the last 7 years incrementally. Taken from a comment a Knuckledraggin’ My Life Away, here. (Note: Original edited for clarity and brevity.)
- Executive orders permitting Interpol complete carte blanch [sic] to operate within our borders with no restrictions, oversight, accountability, even to the state department or the executive branch. Never mind congress.
- A[n]…..election process so corrupted and rigged to be all but worthless in regards to what you and I vote for.
- 7 plus years of equipping, arming, violently indoctrinating…and militarizing, through federal auspices, civilian law enforcement.
- Creation of a continental internal federal police state with powers that ignore every personal liberty based protection [from government overreach] in the US Constitution.
- Numerous executive branch acts of limiting arms, their manufacture, importation and sale [to citizens], void of due process of law. [Current implications from the Oval Office are that a series of ‘Executive Orders’ will further curtail the Second Amendment bypassing Congress as well s the Constitutional amending process.]
- The UN International Small Arms Agreement, a foreign treaty signed by [the Secretary of State]. A treaty never having been presented [to the Senate] for ratification.
- States openly calling for the confiscation of semi-automatic rifles in places like Lexington (yes, THE Lexington).
- UN troops to be invited into the US for the purpose of assisting the US government in combating violent extremism. [Extremely violent criminal gangs and religions with penchants for beheading and burning captives alive are not included in the definition of ‘extremists’.]
- Daily calls from the state co-opted ‘media’ repeating the message to unilaterally disarm the citizenry.
So, how do you get ready for an imminent disaster affecting the entire nation like that? Not possible you say? Think for a moment: The Law of Unintended Consequences usually provides extreme results beyond those anticipated or planned in any situation it becomes involved with. So, that being said, let’s examine this, even if only from an academic perspective.
First, consider the description. It’s certainly beyond possible; these things have happened and are happening. But is it nefarious in design?
Many seem to think so, but what’s relevant as you read this is what you think. Consider current affairs in Eastern, and now, Western Europe. Examine current affairs in our own country. Consider the publicized plans of various agencies to quell ‘civil unrest.’ Think about the publicized military exercises that name military veterans and religious groups as ‘domestic terrorists.’ And then, before you go any further, make a determination: Is this a bunch of paranoid “tin foil hat” crap or maybe, just maybe, is there something to this and you, gentle reader, need to do something positive to take care of your family and friends. If you had the time (which you don’t, believe me), you could do your own investigation from objective sources, file Freedom of Information Act Requests (FOIA) and find that it is, in fact, not only plausible, but the stage is being set every day for just such an eventuality.
If you decide the facts don’t support your personal preparedness, just toss this out. Delete. File 13. Trash. Round file. I hope you enjoy your life and are prosperous. Read no further.
However, if you decide facts presented do support getting started preparing, you have much to think about, much to do, and much to gain in the way of putting yourself, your family and your friends in a better position of an increased chance of living through it.
Think about it. I’ll wait. You’re still here?
Ok, let’s get started.
Before anything else you have to understand that you have very limited time in the way of making purchases (you never know what is going to be banned next by Executive Order or agency decree, or as things get sportier, how much and how fast prices will sky rocket on necessary items), so you need to read this, comprehend it, and take decisive action! No putting this off until after the “fall colors trip” or after you get that new flat screen tee vee (you and your family’s gratification should be realized by getting what you need to survive what’s coming!). Everything mentioned herein will get more expensive by the day (bit by bit, but one day it’s going to take off, then, as time grows shorter, by the hour). Example: Right now you can get a 1200 round case for $
490 $550, shipped (about .41 .46 cents a round). Tomorrow? One more ‘mass shooting’ could bring a panic like the one after Sandy Hook, and you’ll be paying a dollar a round and be glad if you can find it. When you take into account the old axiom that you have 1,000 rounds per rifle in reserve, and 3,000 per rifle on hand is only adequate for SHTF/WROL scenarios, you might want to start some budgeting. Soon as you finish reading this. The old rule of, “you snooze, you lose” will take on major significance to you personally in this case, because what you lose might just be your life, or at the minimum, what’s left of your tattered freedom!
So, what’s the very first thing you do? Simply, start a PT program. See the paragraph on packs below. Fitness is the foundation upon which your preparedness plans, tools, and actions should be built. There are many out there; find the one that’s right for you. Make sure if you haven’t exercised hard in a long time that you get medical clearance; dropping dead from a heart attack doesn’t do your preparedness planning any good, nor does it help your family. Once you’ve gotten into your exercise program and have made some progress getting over the ‘sore muscle syndrome’, start including walks with your ruck (pack) on for varying distances, light weight at first, and add to it as time goes on.
Now, what’s the first thing you buy? You can argue all you want about it, but the simple answer is to take stock of what you have on hand FIRST, because that will be your determining factor. A weapon is essential, but if you have a rifle (even a .22) but you don’t have something that will either provide or help you get things you must have to live you don’t necessarily need a weapon first. Like what? How about a water purifier of some sort? How about non-perishable food items? How about hygiene items? The list can go on, but the point is not to presume that a bigger, better weapon is the first thing. It may very well be the first thing you want, but you must make yourself think in terms of needs based upon what is instead of what may be or is not. For the point of discussion, though, we’ll assume you don’t have a weapon at all and start there, because if you don’t, you need a weapon more than anything else. No weapon, no protection…where it counts…at home.
So, what do you get? A pistol? Shotgun? Rifle? There are as many opinions on the subject as there are weapon choices, but most are influenced by the likes and dislikes of the expert. Most times, getting a general purpose weapon (something that can do a great many things well, some things good, and only a few things poorly) is the best choice. Especially if you don’t have unlimited funds.
So, simply put: Get a Rifle.
All things being equal and you have reasonable vision and average muscle control and dexterity, if you can only have one weapon, make it a rifle. A rifle has more power, more ability to stop and put down any target at ranges in excess of a pistol/revolver or shotgun’s maximum effective range. A quick example of “knock down” power (aka terminal velocity): A 300 Winchester Magnum with a 200 grain bullet that hits its target at 1,000 yards (to illustrate how far this is, you would have to take 36 inch steps every second for 16 and a half minutes to walk 1,000 yards) with more energy than a .44 Magnum does at “point blank” range. Get the picture? Something or someone hit with a rifle goes down and usually does not get back up. Period. But on the chance they do, a follow up shot will settle the issue. Only after all other basic necessities are acquired should you consider getting a pistol, especially if you’re on a limited budget. So then, which rifle? Simplicity is the key here, especially as you may have only shot a rifle a few times in your life or others who will use the rifle fall into that category. So, you need a rifle that’s easy to learn to operate, doesn’t require a lot of maintenance, is fairly accurate, and won’t take all the money you have available to purchase. Here’s an example that fits those requirements:
The K98 or M48 Mauser (later model) is rugged, can take down anything in North America, ammunition is cheap, and it’s maintenance requirements are extremely simple! Cost: Depending on if you get a Yugoslavian M48 or go for the WWII German, you can pay as little as
$250 (prices are rising!) for “Service Grade” for the rifle and about $500 $575 for a case of surplus ammunition. So, for about $750 $950 or $800 $1,000 or so, you have the weapon category taken care of. Remember, the K98/M48 is a good general purpose rifle, but it is purely for defense. It’s a bolt action, and as such, aimed fire combined with it’s large projectile and ability to punch through light barriers is its advantage. These relics have another really good advantage to them in that if all else fails, they are superb clubs and will put down whomever they are hit with. If you have a bit more disposable income, or you don’t need extensive training or are ex-military and want a more prolific weapon that you may have had some familiarization with, you may want to consider the ubiquitous AR-15 carbine family or its descendants. Try to get one chambered in 5.56mm rather than .223 caliber. The differences are minute, but the 5.56mm chamber can take the differences in pressure from the .223 more easily than the .223 chamber can take the 5.56mm pressure differences. It’s a peace of mind thing.
These will cost you anywhere from $800 to $1500 (no change there, as of today), depending on the source, and the price for a case of 55gr Full Metal Jacket (FMJ) will run
$350 $450 and up per 1000 rounds for M-193 55gr. M-855 is still available; get it while you can. Another option at this point might be the 77gr “Open Tip Match (OTM). It’s barrier blind (means it will go through the barrier) and still do a number on the zombie. You’re going to pay twice as much as you will for 55gr or 62gr, (about $900 per 1K shipped – when you can find it) but you get better performance, so seek good advice from friends with expertise and then make your choice. Next, you have to add in an absolutely minimum five seven 30 round magazines, so that will be another $88 to $180 at the bare minimum, again, depending on your source and type of magazine chosen (Magpuls are more expensive than ‘old school’ AR magazines, but they take more of a beating from some reports, and they have a model with a window in the side along with a ’rounds left indicator’ which is handy). So, at the low end, you’re talking about $1,350 ; at the high end, $1,975 or more. About twice as expensive as the Mauser set up, but it’s your call. Remember this: The more complex the weapon, the more intricate the cleaning and maintenance requirements are and the increased amount of training required to effectively employ it. (ABOVE ALL: Learn appropriate weapon safety and handling! LEAVE NOTHING TO CHANCE!!) This estimate doesn’t include necessary maintenance and cleaning solvents, either. A good lube is your friend; we recommend a couple: Frog Lube and Gunzilla. You can find them anywhere. And if you choose the AR, it doesn’t take an awful lot, so a bottle can last quite some time.
A quick disclaimer: All costs have been taken from September 2016 advertisements, and likely price increases will occur depending on local, national and international situations.
To be sure, there are many other fine weapons you could go with, but the two examples cited above give you an idea of the spectrum you can operate in when you are getting your “kit” together. If you know someone who is experienced and knows military pattern rifles well, ask them what they think, but stay focused on ‘general purpose’ in your evaluation and choice. The various blogs in the ‘liberty/preparedness/patriot’ community are a treasure trove of information, but again, stay focused on ‘general purpose’. The 1,000 round examples with each rifle are considered to be a minimum of what one would need to stay viable in a scenario such as described above for an extended period. Something else you need to know: You are your own supply chain. You cannot count on having someone to provide extra, so everything you have needs to be able to fill more than one function. Additionally, when/if things go South, and you are lucky enough to join with others who are like minded, showing up with a good, general purpose rifle and a case of ammunition will go a long way in their determination whether or not to let you stay.
Ammunition: Just like with the weapon category, there are many, many types of ammunition you could elect to purchase. The examples above were military surplus “full metal jacket” or FMJ examples (except for the OTM – it has a small open tip, so technically, it’s not, “full” nor is it a true ‘hollow point’). FMJ is a good, all around general purpose bullet for self-defense purposes. It doesn’t expand like hunting rounds do, but it rarely fails to chamber and can reliably kill any animal or adversary you need it to take down (especially if you pay attention to shot placement, which means learning to become accurate as possible). If you’re just starting out becoming prepared, don’t waste your time and money trying to get several types of ammunition for different purposes; get the FMJ and use the money you have left to get other items you’ll need. As previously mentioned, the standard “rule of thumb” is that for each rifle you depend on, 1,000 rounds should be held in reserve to ensure you have a reasonable supply if ever needed. That means you should buy at least 1,500 rounds, so you can get proficient with your choice as soon as possible. 500 rounds will get you started, so long as you are properly trained. And remember, without ammunition, a rifle is basically an interesting paper weight.
Food: All food considered for this sort of emergency planning must be non-perishable and easily transportable. Not necessarily very light (though that helps a LOT), but transportable, meaning compactable, easily packed, able to be put in other containers, water/moisture proof, etc. Power bars, granola, tuna kits (especially the foil packet), peanut butter, honey, dried soups, etc. Light is good. Heavy, not so much, but heavy food is better than no food. And, if you are sheltering in place, think ‘compact’ rather than weight. Also calculate that you want to build your pantry until you have at least 90 days of food for however many you have in your home.
Or, you might be in a position that you have to transport on foot the things you need in order to stay out of the net cast by the nefarious elements in the scenario at the beginning of this paper. For example, if you have the choice between canned soups that are ‘ready to eat’ and ‘condensed’ soups you add water for preparation, the condensed soups should get the nod, because you get relatively the same volume of soup for about a third of the weight. Taking that a step further, if you have dried soup mixes that are vacuum sealed and water tight, you should choose those because they’re about 5 to 10% of the weight of the condensed variety, and you can pack quite a bit more, which extends your ability to live without going to the store (which might not be an option, either). Get the picture? Here’s a good source recommended by JC Dodge at Mason Dixon Tactical.
You could also choose the ubiquitous “MRE” of military fame or the freeze dried foods mountain climbers use. You could choose to take your entire stock of canned foods in your vehicle (just make sure you use these first incase you have to abandon your vehicle and you don’t have a pack horse handy!). What is essential is that you have a average of 1700 to 2000 calories a day per person in your party for a minimum of 14 days especially if you have children with you. You’ll find you actually need more than 2,000 calories per day if you’re in survival mode (moving a lot, outdoors a lot, and under extreme stress while moving and living outdoors), or in winter conditions, but averaging 2K calories (not empty calories, either, like candy) comprised of a 1/3 balance of protein, natural fats, and carbohydrates will keep everyone able to do whatever needs to be done. If you were using full MRE packs, which would mean each person would have to be able to carry 14 MRE’s. That’s a case plus 2, which is a lot, and heavy. Don’t despair, however. Creativity counts here. Through experimentation, I’ve found that 4 MRE tubes of peanut butter and one MRE pack of “trail mix” (peanuts, raisins, and ‘chocolate discs’ (military jargon for M&M’s) equals 1350 calories. Add in a 400 calorie “energy bar” and a protein bar with 20 grams of protein, you have the 2000 calories for one day. This little recipe also has almost the perfect mix of fat, protein, and carbohydrates required for optimum nutrition for a limited time on the 1/3 rule. To be sure, you’re not getting natural nutrients that green leaf and other vegetables supply, but that can be overcome with a bottle of ‘Juice Plus’ veggie or fruit supplements for each person. Weighs about 3 ounces and provides all the vegetable nutrients you need for 2 months by taking two a day (120 capsule size). You know what you and yours can and can’t eat (due to allergies). So you have to make the decision. The bottom line is that you need food for a couple of weeks (this is just travel food) and for at least 6 months (absolute bare minimum) in your pantry at home (or at a pre-selected location that you might be travelling to) against the possibilities of interruption of the supply chain.
Remember, our scenario here is national martial law reinforced by UN ‘peacekeepers’ which will profoundly impact the supply chain that operates mostly with over-the-road trucks, and a shut down of the interstate system would be just about required for this scenario to work. And that could easily happen if all they concentrated on were the truckers and requiring them to hold their cargo in place until ‘clearance’ came through.
When it comes to food in your pantry, or ‘larder’ as I call it, a quick word of caution: Do NOT tell everyone you know what you’re doing!! ESPECIALLY ON SOCIAL MEDIA!!! Especially if they’re not ‘like-minded’! Keep your preparations to yourself, even from your extended family unless they’re doing the same thing you are. Even then, keep information disclosure minimal. If emergency conditions do occur, the unprepared will remember and either show up at your door demanding what you have or they’ll turn you in to the “authorities” for ‘hoarding’ to gain favor or food.
Now, to continue, make sure you have things like cooking oil, flour, dried beans, yeast, and sea salt in addition to the various canned and comfort goods. One way to increase the size of your larder so it’s not noticed by anyone, including store employees wondering why you have 5 shopping carts full of canned goods, would be to added 4 to 6 items of whatever to your ‘normal’ list each shopping trip. Or, start shopping at the various ‘clubs’ such as Sam’s, Costco, and others that routinely see people buying large amounts of foodstuffs. As you go through and categorize your items at home, cycle through them, using the oldest first and replacing those with ‘new’ items with much later expiration dates.
Lastly, water has to be added to the food category, as many meals, especially those with dried ingredients, require the addition of water for pre-cooking preparation or rehydration (in the case of some beans, soup mixes, or other dehydrated offerings).
In “normal” circumstances, people use several gallons a day for hydration, hygiene, and cooking purposes. In a scenario such as the one we are planning for, this is one of those things that must change immediately! Chances are that water could/would be cut-off as a measure of control or as a result of utility workers not being allowed or able to reach their workplaces. The bottom line is that to depend upon a municipal water system in our scenario is just asking for trouble! To mitigate that possibility, two water sources must be developed.
The first, for the home, is stored water. Storing water isn’t difficult or very expensive at all. All you need to do is go to your local discount house and get one 6 gallon water container for camping (you know, the one’s with the spigots?) per person. They’re about $12 each. The cost for the ubiquitous American family of four would be under $50. Once at home, take ¼ cup of unscented chlorine bleach and ¾ cup of water, mix it, and rinse out each container. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then rinse again with clean water and let it dry. Now fill it to the brim and add 8 drops of the same unscented bleach per gallon (48 drops from an eyedropper for a 6 gallon container) and fill it up with water to the brim! Try not to leave any air bubbles. Put the lid on it snugly, and keep it in the basement out of the way. Just as it is, this water can be used for two years with no ill effects for anyone who drinks it. If in doubt, you can always add 8 more drops of bleach per gallon after the first year, year and a half or so has gone by and let it sit for at least 30 minutes before you consume it. A smart move is to rotate the water out once a year (if things don’t go South before then!). Take the old water and use it for whatever you want. I personally water my wife’s flowers and the vegetable garden. You can also get something called, ‘Stabilized Oxygen’ and add it to suspect water, about 10 drops per 8 ounces, wait 5 minutes, and drink it with no ill effects. The oxygen that’s in it attacks and kills all bad things swimming in it. I’ve used it on pond, stream and lake water, and have had no ill effects. It costs about $20 a bottle on Amazon. The brand I use is from ‘Dexterity Health’. I also put 120 drops in my camelback when I fill it and it keeps well. I recently used the camelback for a weekend with water that had been in it for a year, and it tasted great and again, no issues.
In reserve, if things get really bad, you always have your hot water heater to drain as well as your pipes once the water supply is cut off. The key is to drain from the lowest point in your house as soon as you know you’ve lost water pressure (usually your basement). Then, turn on the cold water and fill up your containers until the water runs out. Don’t turn on the hot water! Not yet, anyway. Wait until you know for sure the supply of cold water is not coming back anytime soon. In the mean time, get a section of hose with the female end; 8 feet is more than enough. Attach it to the bottom of your hot water heater. You now have a way to drain your hot water heater into a container as you need it. Most homes have 30 to 50 gallon (or even larger) water heaters, which are a superb reserve that will extend your range of comfort, nutrition (cooking water), hydration, and hygiene for quite awhile, relatively speaking. Apartment and condo dwellers, unless they have individual water heaters, only have the option of getting to the lowest spigot in the facility and getting extra water that way.
What about if you move out? You need something to ensure any water you forage is safe to drink. First, forget the hype about filters that have filter openings larger than 0.1 microns. Larger micron openings are not guaranteed to purify your water at all. So you need something a bit better. This option is the best option currently available today, but it is relatively expensive – almost as expensive as your rifle. But look at it this way: This system guarantees at least ONE MILLION gallons of purified water from any source. The risk of cooking, drinking, and washing with contaminated water is virtually nullified!
The basic model costs $52/ If you have an extra $125, get the Sawyer Point ZEROTWO™ Bucket Purifier Assembly Kit
This small, lightweight filter kit can provide up to 170 gallons of clean water per day. Assembly Kit Includes: Hole Cutter, a Sawyer Point ZeroTWO™ 0.02 Micron Absolute Inline Water Purifier, adapter, hose, Filter Cleaner, Filter Hanger, and detailed instruction book. All you have to provide is a 5 or 6 gallon bucket and assemble it. Talk about mobile! Here’s the link: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/water-purification-products.html
Caution: Don’t fall prey to the idea that “doing it on the cheap” will be just as good as spending everything you can afford to spend. Cheap is as cheap does! You get what you pay for! You skimp, you lose! This would be the time, if you didn’t have the cash, to use your credit card or savings. This is THE rainy day you’ve been saving for! Get the very best you can afford! Get the picture?
Medications: Everyone needs to know that they should always have on hand at least a three month supply of required medications for any emergency! To do otherwise is risking certain death, especially in the scenario we’re operating under. Whatever it takes to get your med supply up to par, do. If you have refills, get them as quickly as possible and keep the spares in a “go kit” that you cycle through, just like your larder. Aside from those meds, put a large bottle of aspirin, a large bottle of multi-vitamins, a super-sized box/package of mild laxative, a super-sized package of Amodium AD, 3 large tubes of Neosporin Plus (this has pain reliever), a couple small bottles of Oil of Cloves (dental pain reliever), 100 yards (do the math) of unwaxed dental floss, 1 pound of sea salt & 1 pound of baking soda (best tooth paste when mixed 1 to 1 and can be used to augment food supplies), a large box of assorted band aids, and 2 large bottles of hydrogen peroxide. Why peroxide? It is a superb disinfectant and can be used to treat most foot related problems (athlete’s foot, etc), periodontal disease (rinsing daily for five minutes – don’t swallow, though!), disinfecting small & large cuts or abrasions, etc. Spend $167 on this item:
FAMILY SIZE M17 FULLY STOCKED TRAUMA MEDIC BAG
The Large M17 Medic Bag is a great bag with a very nice set of contents. The G.I. style issue bag itself can be carried by the carrying handle or the back pack straps. The bag folds out three ways for easy access to all the contents.
The FA110 measures 16”x10”x13.5” and weights 12.25 lbs.
Color for this bag is Olive Drab
Contains 320 items, including:
5 Skin and Eye Wash,1 Skin Probe, 1 Hand Sanitizer, 1 Scalpel handle #3, 1 Hand Soap, 2 Scalpel Blades, 1 Calamine Lotion, 6oz., 1 Pen Light, 1 Burn Spray, 2 Suture Sets, 1 SAM / Universal Splint, 1 EFA – First Aid Book, 4 Multitrauma dressing, 6 Safety Pins, 2 BleedStop Bandages , 2 Pill Bottles, 4 Bandage Gauzes, 2”x5yds., 6 Pairs , Latex Examination Gloves, 2 Elastic Bandages, 6” , 14 Pain Relievers, 12 Elastic Bandages, 2” , 1 Tourniquet, 4 Sterile Pads, 4”x4”, 2 Irrigation Syringes, 10 Sterile Pads, 2”x2” , 4 First Aid Cream Packages, 10 Abdominal Pads, 5”x9” , 4 Triple Antibiotic Packages, 2 Eye Pads, 2 Burn Aid Packages, 2 Triangular Bandage, 5 Tape, Rolls, Adhesive, 1”, 100 Bandage Strips, 1”x3”, 15 Alcohol Wipes, 5 Butterfly Strips, 15 Iodine Wipes, 10 Bandage Strips, 2”x3”, 15 Antiseptic BZK Wipes, 10 Knuckle Bandages, 15 Clean Wipes, 3 Instant Ice Packs, 6 After Bite Wipes, 1 Stethoscope, 2 Ammonia Inhalants, 1 Lip Treatment, 1 CPR Mask, 1 EMT Shears, 7.25”, 2 Airways, 2 Stainless Steel Hemostats, 2 Tongue Depressors, 1 Pair of Tweezers, 1 Box of 100 Cotton Tips, 1 Petroleum Jelly
Here’s your link: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/medical-rescue-kits.html
Lastly, as it will save you some emergency treatment, if you’re still of child bearing age and you will have intimate relations with someone who could get pregnant or make you pregnant, get a good supply of condoms or a cervical cup. You don’t want a pregnant woman trying to deliver a baby in a bad situation!
Transportation: If you stay in place any longer than 24 hours once a national “state of emergency” has been declared, you’re most likely going to be stuck there for at least a few weeks unless you have an alternate mode of transportation other than your car, truck, SUV or mini-van. But let’s say you decide if this scenario happens, you’re jumping in whatever you have and hitting the open road. Great! First, though, don’t count on too many gas stations being open, or if they are, expect very, very high prices. A good “rule of thumb” is to quadruple the prices you see today and expect to pay that amount, in cash, per gallon! With prices hovering within range of $2.50 a gallon today, and projected to climb, figure $10 to $15 a gallon or more and for a 20 gallon tank, you need to have $300 (to be on the safe side) or more in cash on you to fill your tank once! If the gas station takes plastic, all the better! (Tip: When paying, don’t pull your wad out where others can see it. Nothing might happen immediately, but you may be followed from the gas station.) The bottom line is that you need to expect that gas will be very expensive and not on every street corner. It will most likely be ‘rationed’ as well, as the unprepared howl about ‘hoarding’ and ‘price gouging.’ You can mitigate your fuel needs by doing a couple things: First, never, and I mean never, allow your tank to get below half full! This gives you a 200 mile buffer (most vehicles get 400 miles on an average tank of gas) so that if you couldn’t refuel at all, you can at least get to a more survivable area. Keeping your tank half full also decreases the amount of cash you need just for fuel by 50% from $200 to $100 or more. The rest of your cash can be used for barter or purchasing necessities you find along the way (like more ammo or food). Second, consider the purchase of at least three 5 gallon gas cans (make sure the nozzle fits an unleaded gas coupling in modern vehicles), fill them up, and treat them with ‘Sta-bil’ gas stabilizer (the blue stuff). This will make sure the gas stays “fresh” for quite some time. Then, if nothing bad happens, cycle the gas through your lawn mower or other small engine that always seem to be out!
Some folks have opted for the All-American ATV or “Four Wheeler” that can take one to two passengers and all your gear. A major advantage to these little transports is that they do not need roads. They can also ford many streams and rivers of 3 feet or less in depth. The problem with these machines, while fun as well as useful in certain applications, is that they are terrible on gas mileage, and you can hear them coming for a long, long way unless the owners have spent the money necessary on buying certain after-market mufflers that reduce their signature to almost that of a car. Additionally, you have to have cash for refueling and plan to carry one five gallon fuel can on the machine as well to give you twice the range.
Lastly, map out a route that doesn’t take major roads like the interstate out of your area. Secondary and surface streets are the way to go. After you map it, drive it. A few times. Find out what areas are good, what are bad, and make route adjustments so you’ll have the most trouble free route out of your location to your “hidey hole”.
So, what happens if you can’t get out in your vehicle or you run out of gas? That ever present old stand-by, ‘shanks mare’, comes into play. You’ll have to walk and pack your goods. This eventuality means that you’ll need to be fit enough to walk for some miles with about 50 or more pounds on your back! (A good pack to start with is the large ALICE frame pack, that can be found on eBay. Don’t get the Chinese knock off! The frame is famous for breaking. A good example will cost about
$50 $80 or so before shipping; so figure $100. Be picky. Sure, there are other more modern packs available. Whatever you decide on for your pack, make sure it’s in an earthtone color and fits. Our staff here uses the newer USMC FILBE, but it’s somewhat expensive, as other more ‘tacticool’ packs. Function is key here. I used a large ALICE for 18 years and didn’t have any major problems.) Impossible you say?? Nope. Not at all. Start your fitness upgrade today. After you read this, go out and walk around the block. Do one sit up. Do one push up. There. Not so hard. Tomorrow do the same thing and the day after, walk a little further and do two sit ups and two push ups. Repeat until you’re doing a couple sets of sit ups and push ups with 25 repetitions and walking 3 miles fast! This goal can easily be accomplished in 10 weeks! Most likely, if you’re “average”, you can do it in 5 weeks, and then have the bonus of getting in even better shape by Inauguration day! Walking in the cold, by the way, is good for you! Remember, PT is God’s gift to those who wish to extend their lives.
If you have to go on foot, you need to make sure you have very good boots or shoes (do not skimp on your footwear!), maps, and a compass (and know how to use it). There are “how to” sites all over the internet on this subject – a five minute search will bring up a nice variety. There are also schools for those who like having someone show them personally. Here’s one: https://defensivetraininggroup.wordpress.com/2015/02/17/essential-skills-land-navigation-1-2-2425-april-2015/
I do not recommend a GPS because it can be used to fix your position by an aggressor and the satellites all GPS units use will, in our little scenario, have an error margin of up to 100 meters programmed into them for civilians to make them useless. You’ll also need batteries (lots of them and the weight adds up and the supply is finite!). You see, an aggressive government like the fictional one in our scenario will not want you to have the same accuracy in navigating as it does. The best compass in my experience is the USGI compass, now made by Cammenga. It’s about $80 on average, but it’s worth every penny! You can get yours here: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/navigation-products.html
If you can only afford one, fine. Just take care of it. If you have a chance to get two, do it! There’s an only rule you need to try to follow: “Two is one and one is none”. Sure, redundancy is repetitive (pun intended), but it’s better to have a spare and not need it than need a spare really bad and not have it. Having a couple people trained on the compass makes sense, too, because the two can check each other when making determinations.
You can also get a base plate compass with a Declination adjustment built right in that will help you a lot! The one we use is a Suunto MC2. Ebay and Amazon has them for about $50 or so. We use and teach both at DTG. Redundancy is a goodness thing.
The one advantaged the Suunto has over the USGI Lensatic is that the declination adjustment allows you to measure azimuths on a grid map and skip the conversion process from grid to magnetic and magnetic to grid when performing plots (more on that when you take our Land Nav course). An example of something else you can do is to use a map similar to the one below as a guide. It’s not a road map. It’s the Rand McNally rail road map of Michigan. All those tracks are still out there. Some have been made into “rails to trails” venues, but the track beds are still there and can be used for our purposes. You can parallel these routes while staying off main roads and out of sight and still get to where you’re going. Your object in the next ten weeks is to choose a primary and an alternate route and go for a ride or two to get a mental picture of the area you might have to traverse on foot. While you’re at it, choose some spots you could ‘hole up’ for a night or two that wouldn’t be readily noticed or attractive to others. Make sure they’re concealed and far enough away from the major commercial route (tracks or highways) so that your noise can’t be heard your movement won’t be picked up by casual observance. Mark them down on your map with just a ‘tick’ mark or two. These spots could be your temporary shelter in storms or when you needed to stay still and rest.
Shelter & Field Gear: You’re going to need some things here. And not a tent, either. Tents are not so hot because they blind you to what’s outside, they keep condensation inside them, and they’re not super-fast to take down. From experience in all seasons, to include deep cold winter, I recommend a simple tarp/poncho shelter. There are many types out there from the surplus USMC ‘field tarp’, which is great for one or two people without their packs, or the ‘Noah’s Tarp’ that has all sorts of loops sewn in that can take 3 people with their packs and keep them out of the rain and wind. Again, you get what you pay for, so don’t fall prey to shrewd salesmanship. ‘General Purpose’ is key, and that’s another reason I recommend the tarp system. You’ll need some 550 cord and you’ll have to learn a few knots, like the bowline and the trucker’s hitch, but it’ll be well worth it.
Now that you’ve got something to keep the wind off of you, to stay warm, you need insulation. And, in that light, the best insulation you can get is to make sure you get a “30 below” sleeping bag for each person that will keep you warm in the winter and in summer, you can lay on top of it. You can spend as much as you want on a sleeping bag or sleeping bag system. Just remember “Caveat Emptor” – Buyer Beware! You get what you pay for! A good, well-priced bag is from Wiggy’s. It’s their “Superlight” bag and costs as little as $130 when on sale. You may also want to get a FTRSS overbag for an additional $130 and have a -40 below bag system. Add a poncho liner and poncho for hot summer days or cool fall evenings. This will cost about $45 for a set. So, for about $300 per person, you’ve got all 4 seasons covered, and can stay warm in the coldest places. Wiggy’s bags, by the way, are used exclusively by my instructor staff when participating or teaching survival classes. We’ve learned from experience how good they are. Wiggy’s can be found here: www.wiggys.com You can also get your Wiggy’s bag from http://www.greatlakesurvival.com while you’re getting your water purification equipment.
Well, let’s pause and see how much we’ve committed financially here:
At the most, getting all high-end gear, you’ve committed about $4,000 and at the least, about $2,000 on the low end for a weapon, ammo, water purification and storage, fuel costs, food, shelter, and a very small amount of field gear.
Between $200 and $400 a week for 10 weeks to spend on making sure you survive and thrive. People spend more than that on junk food, cable and beer these days. Learning to take care of yourself and your loved ones is not expensive or difficult – all it takes is discipline. Only you can provide that.
Speaking of “surviving and thriving”, there’s one written source you need to have to read for the 10 week period. It’s called, “Six Ways in and Twelve Ways Out” It’s a compilation of US Ranger knowledge on how to make it in all sorts of scenarios. You can get it for $15 from http://www.usrsog.org/manu.htm post paid. Best book you can get on the subject!
Buy it. Read it. Apply it. You’ll be glad you did. Other field gear you’re going to need is a good knife. A plain old USMC KaBar with a 7 inch blade is about the best you can get for the money. Sure, you can get a good Cold Steel knife or something else that you spend lots of money on, but the problem is if they’re more expensive than the KaBar and don’t have that many advantages over the KaBar for the price, why spend the money, especially with only 10 weeks to prepare? Remember to stick to the basics! KaBar knives can be had all over the internet from between $40 to $50. It will not let you down. Remember this about a large bladed knife: It can do everything a smaller knife can do reasonably well, but a smaller knife can’t do a lot of the things a larger blade can do. Like when you need to hack branches when building shelters, or need to butcher a deer, prepare a meal, etc. The other edged weapon/tool you’re going to want and need is a tomahawk. It’s a great tool to make your life more bearable and a formidable weapon (provided you have taken the time to learn to use it, which can only be done effectively by being taught), both physically and psychologically. You’ll want your hawk to have a hardened hammer and blade which is superb for making cooking tools, stakes, etc. The one I recommend is the Cold Steel “Pipe Hawk” which you can get for less that $50 if you look. It’s light, strong, and takes an edge very well. If you decide you want to add one to your gear, it’s one of those ‘got everything else, so I can get this now’ and if you do, get yours here: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/survival-tomahawks.html
Other very important field gear and equipment are: Toilet paper (2 rolls per person minimum, 3 for females), a “spork” (spoon/fork hybrid) made out of aluminum (against breakage), a “utility pot” (can be a canteen cup), 4 tooth brushes per person with the handle cut in half (weight/space reduction), parachute cord (at least 200 feet), a fire starting device (BIC type lighter as well as sparking device and the knowledge on how to use it) .
You will also want to consider a FRS/GMRS type walkie-talkie, spare batteries, flash lights (small LED are best), spare batteries and some spare batteries. Get the point? You’re going to need some batteries.
For carrying this gear on your person, you’ll probably want a Load Bearing Vest or harness. You can pick these up cheap on the internet. We prefer the “H” harness and a ‘battle belt’, but each person has their own preferences. Some like vests; others more exotic set ups. Below is similar to what we prefer. Sure, it’s old school, but it’s inexpensive, and it works. Like there’s no tomorrow. Remember, this is to get set up quickly making every dollar count.
As for clothing, make sure it’s not bright and at least doesn’t clash with your surroundings. If you’re going to be moving through or staying in urban areas, you don’t want the latest camouflage pattern; if you’re moving through or staying in a rural area, you definitely want some surplus GI camouflage uniforms (with all insignia removed) or better yet, Coyote Brown or Grey pants and jackets. You can find old woodland BDU uniforms very cheaply at garage sales, on the internet, and so forth.
Make sure you have weather appropriate clothing as well: Cold weather boots, socks, underwear, etc. Frostbite can kill you.
These are most of the items you’d most likely need to survive a scenario from an equipment perspective. But what about the “people” angle? Contrary to what some think, no man is an island and you can’t do it all by yourself.
You need support – a team member, someone to watch your back. Oh sure, some folks have large families and can delegate those tasks, but many, many others, just have themselves or a spouse/significant other. And, usually, that spouse/significant other is not trained nor has the discipline to handle the more arduous, but very mundane tasks required.
So, what do you do then? You get yourself a “buddy”. You can do that in the 10 week time period handily. Start checking out your friends. See which ones seem to be alarmed with what’s going on as you are. Then, find a time to speak with them alone and “test the waters”. If they agree and want to do something, give them a copy of this and get to work.
While getting your equipment and supplies together, draft and develop your plan. Will you:
- Stay put? Doing so in a large urban area most likely means you will be searched, possibly relocated, and should you resist, be in danger from the occupying force. You need to consider getting out of the urban area as soon as possible before bad things occur, rather than after.
- Run for the “hills”? Ok, that’s plausible, but you need to really pay attention to where you might go, because in most states with large population centers, a significant amount of those ‘city people’ may be doing the same thing! By necessity, your rule will be “no contact whatever” with others that you see along your way because you will have no way of knowing who, if anyone, is with them or has them under observation.
- Pack up and move to Grandma’s? Also feasible, provided Grandma has a place that will support the group you’re moving. Think of hygiene requirements, sustenance, and life support (can you or your little group do something to earn silver?)
- Give yourself up? Many will be tempted and eventually succumb, but those who do will be even more miserable than those who stay the course. Remember Thomas Paine, “…these are the times that try men’s souls….but he that stands it deserves the love of both men and women….”
Once you have your buddy and you begin to build trust between you and learn each other’s (both individually and group) likes, dislikes, habits and so forth, you can still find another “buddy team” to partner with. That gives you a group from 8 to 24 or so, depending on family size. The logistical requirements are more complex, but if each handles his own family/team, it’s not so overwhelming. At the same time, you and your buddy(s) need to start studying. If the internet is still up, go to Scribd and download and read this book, “A Failure of Civility”. Go to Amazon.com and get a copy of Dr. Joseph P. Martino’s book, “Resistance to Tyranny”. Start here at our blog and read everything on training, basic skills, and so forth. That ought to keep you busy for the entire 10 weeks, and then, later, if you have the money and things haven’t imploded, get yourself to a good school for face to face training. All of the blogs or sites listed above either offer training or can direct you to a reputable one, depending on your needs. Do your research and focus on schools that are teaching survival skills, not just warfighting.
The next issue is leadership. Teams just won’t work as a committee. All your members will have input, sure, but someone has to make the hard decisions. This may be the most complex issue you need to solve: who will you or your little band trust to make those hard decisions, and will the group follow that person? It’s not about popularity, either. It’s about ability and reason. The best case scenario for you would be to have someone in your group who’s an experienced leader either in business or prior military (not just being in, but being in and being a leader!) which will provide you a foundation of discipline for your chosen leader. The leader has to be secure enough to listen to others, humble enough to know others may have a great idea, selfless enough to put the group before his own needs (everyone always gets fed and watered before the leader), and tough enough to make the decisions that won’t be popular sometimes. Admittedly, a tall order, but it has to be done. Your leadership discussions may cause one or two to fall out of the group. That’s going to happen. If it does, let them leave with their self-respect. Don’t hurt their pride or “throw them out”. That’d be the worst thing you could do! Remember, we’re talking about a whole new paradigm here: Martial Law. If someone leaves and goes away with their pride intact and holds no hard feelings, they won’t be so likely to turn you in to the “new” authorities. They just might, however, if they have a chip on their shoulder or want to “pay you back” for some slight, real or imagined. Be conscious of this group dynamic! Now a word on being a good follower: As your leader builds trust and earns your respect, you are obligated to be a good follower. Don’t get involved in any back-biting, sabotaging, or otherwise dysfunctional group behavior. This is for real, and bullshit adolescent games will only get you killed. Do as you said you would do; do as you’re asked, and always, to the very best of your ability.
Networking follows: If the net is still up, find others close by or in the area you are moving to (if you can) that feel as you do, at least on the face of it. Start a dialog and listen carefully! Be nice! Help them do things. Be a good neighbor. Don’t get involved in chest thumping or penis measuring contests. They should exhibit about the same anxiousness you have in networking. If they’re too open and promise the moon for nothing in return or if they’re so closed they accuse you of being in the “enemy” camp, you don’t want anything to do with them. Look elsewhere. Common sense and values are key here.
Finally, develop your “line in the sand”. This is that one thing that will cause you to execute your plan. An example would be the actual deployment of foreign or UN troops anywhere in the United States. That action is an obvious declaration that the compact of the Unanimous Declaration and the Constitution of the United States has been discarded; once discarded, the Rule of Law is completely dead and buried.
So, as I said earlier, this is a “quick and dirty” discussion on how to plan and what to do in the 10 weeks between now and the middle of May. How it comes out, we’ll all know soon enough, I guess.
Timeline wise, here’s an outline that may help:
Week 1: Inventory, evaluate and prioritize equipment needs; evaluate available funds; begin fitness program.
Week 2: Incorporate weapon familiarity training into schedule; gather fiscal resources and begin purchases.
Week 3: Dry fire; look for “buddy”; evaluate friends on like-minded concerns; begin to educate your family/spouse/significant other.
Week 4: Help “buddy” start preparations; continue equipment gathering. Begin training immediate family members.
Week 5: Determine “GOOD” location (if any), map route, and do initial route familiarization trip. Modify route as actual conditions warrant.
Week 6: Determine “line in the sand”; if you can, zero your rifle and get range time. If not, continue practice with dry fire.
Week 7: Look for like-minded people in GOOD location and at home. Network.
Week 8: Pack newly gathered equipment into GOOD kits and locate near transport.
Week 9: Continue preparations; family/network education & planning.
Week 10: Dress rehearsal; clean weapons, check equipment, food, etc. Continue to increase fitness level, refine preparations, seek more training.
By the time you’re through the 10 week plan, the general election will have occurred, and you’ll be able to use the ensuing time between now and January, when the new president is sworn in, to further your preps and training.
Lastly, remember, you’re adapting a new way of life here. Not some sort of paranoiac, delusional “everyone’s out to get me” mindset, but one of careful evaluation of what is and what can occur, and a solemn determination to keep freedom alive. Because this is just the beginning-once all the people in the country doing this get their “sea legs”, the long journey undertaken to reclaim our freedoms and reign in a government removed from the Constitution has just begun.
H/T to WRSA.
Was very pleased to find this gem of a site on WRSA. Great information; great references available for purchase. As has been said before by many more intelligent and articulate people than this blogger, “Education never stops….”
Original thought provoking link, here.
Quote of the decade on the subject of ‘Constitutional Carry’ from the piece:
“Constitutional Carry frees you (not “allows” you, which implies someone has authority to ban or grant your human and civil rights) to carry discreetly or otherwise without government permission or prerequisite.”
And now, without further ado, the post:
Is it right for “officials” to maintain the right to keep and bear,
when we the people, their employers, cannot?
In this country, the people are the sovereigns and government is the servant.
It’s time to put force behind those words.
May issue carry
Shall issue carry
Right to Carry
Freedom to Carry
THE SECOND SECOND AMENDMENT
by Alan Korwin
The Uninvited Ombudsman
Jan. 16, 2012
Officials travel armed. When a contingent of our officials visits any other country, they bring armed personnel in classic right-to-bear-arms manner. Life is dangerous and the ability to protect yourself is a reasonable and prudent thing, a fundamental human right of existence, a moral imperative. So they go armed. It’s only rational. Hillary and similar bring along enough firepower that if some of their group go one way while some head off in another, they’re both covered.
The same is true in reverse. When an ambassador from Trashcanistan comes to the United States, discreetly armed bodyguards accompany the party at all times, “laws to the contrary notwithstanding.” That’s lawyer-speak for “their right to carry supersedes any other rules,” or in plainer English, “We’re above those laws.” The ambassador might decide to personally carry too. I’m guessing Hillary does not.
There’s this whole “second system” of gun possession and carry here domestically, another layer of rules on top of the common ones you must follow, operating quietly with people in the know cooperating.
Where are the laws for this exception to every gun law on the U.S. books? How does this special class of people exempt themselves from laws controlling the rest of us?
No one is harmed by their exemption. In fact, community safety increases, because assaults on those armed people are naturally deterred, even defensible if needed. Should we the people maybe have Diplomatic Carry too? Is a diplomat’s life truly at more risk — or worth more — than any “commoner”? How does this comply with equal protection under the law?
Local authorities understand implicitly that these armed folks aren’t going to randomly shoot people, or settle arguments with gunfire, the same as you and me when we’re armed. They enjoy proper respect (even if they come from regimes that don’t deserve it). We on the other hand have rights denied haphazardly, even with Constitutional Carry. As good as it is, Constitutional Carry is not enough.
Americans need and deserve the next step, Diplomatic Carry.
The body politic moves slowly. After several decades of experience, police nationwide understand and operate just fine within a framework of millions of people traveling armed. As the number of people carrying arms for crime control has increased, assaultive crimes have decreased. The media generally calls this “a surprising decrease in crime that has the experts baffled.” All these people are walking around armed, expressly to forestall crime, and the media can’t understand why crime has dropped. But I digress.
Oh sure, armed forces within the U.S. — from local police to secretive agents our government is now filled with — keep a watchful eye on the armed diplomats, as well they should. They also provide backup in the event of need. The same as for us.
But in the big picture, diplomats have less need for an ever-present armed escort than the public. A rare few diplomats face death at the hands of the mobs. Thousands of citizens are murdered each year. Who needs protection more?
The freedom of Diplomatic Carry, a concept many of us can easily grasp, is mind boggling to the great unwashed. So insulated from any truth about firearms, victims of television and the government-run school system, they have imbedded ignorance that is hard to shake. Destructively misinformed kids and teachers compound the problem. I digress again.
Now, Diplomatic Carry is not going to happen overnight. Many voices will be raised in objection to such freedom.
And unfortunately, some opposition will come from people who consider themselves firearms enthusiasts. Establishing everyone’s uninfringed freedom to carry is scary, at least to some. But that’s OK. Real freedom is a house high on a hill.
Diplomatic Carry is a paradigm shift. A window into a world that could be, and ought to be, a lofty goal. Your right to your life and its protection cannot morally be denied. It is denied only by force, and there is only one viable countermeasure to force unfortunately, in this best of all possible worlds, and that’s countervailing force. I don’t like it, but there it is.
Diplomatic Carry is a new level of autonomy, of personal sovereignty. It raises the bar. In this country, the people are the sovereigns and the government is the servant. How do you justify the servants carrying arms if the masters cannot?
The only consistent position for free people to take is this:
Anything short of Diplomatic Carry is infringement.
I am in the process of dissecting the legal framework that enables Diplomatic Carry, and modeling an approach for extending those principles to the public. Conceptually this is sound. Pragmatically it is an uphill climb, but as Americans we know that anything can be climbed. I’ll have early results soon in my blog, PageNine.org. Sign up to stay informed.
Copyright 2012 Alan Korwin
Permission to circulate granted
Check out and see what Santa might want to put in stockings from the site!
First, before we get into the post as written by ‘Marc MacYoung’, which I very much agree with on the whole; the man makes a lot of sense, I am an admitted ‘student of the knife’ when it comes to capabilities and techniques. Out of all the years I’ve studied one system or another, technique upon technique, I’ve learned a few good things: A: Knife duels (what most consider a ‘knife fight’) are rarer than hen’s teeth. B: People who say they prefer to get into a fight with a knife wielding opponent are either 1 – consummate bullshiters or 2 – in possession of a ‘less than sane’ death wish. C: All the knives in the world and all the ‘knife training’ in the world will not prepare you for a knife attack. Read the article. Knife attacks are more precisely defined as ‘assassination attempts’. Also, pay particular attention to what the writer says about ‘self-defense’. You have to know when to stop….many don’t.
The only place where the knife fighting fantasy exists is in the martial arts. There is no such thing in the modern civilized world. In legal terms it is attempted murder, assault with a deadly weapon or homicide. To the streetfighterit is assassination, not a “fight” at all. To the criminal it is a tool for robbery Everyone else considers it abhorrent macho stupidity.
Knife fighting lies
On this page:
Lie #1You’re going to have time to draw your own weapon | Lie #2 It’s going to be a knife “fight” | Lie #3 But what if I’m cornered?” | Lie #4 He’s going to attack you a specific way | Lie# 5 And then he is going to passively stand there while you carve him | Lie #6 Trapping and stripping | Lie #7 Bio-mechanical cutting | Lie #8 Knowing how to stickfight means you know how to knife fight | Lie #9 Knowing kali makes you a knife fighter | Lie #10 Grappling with a knife | Lie #11 The knife is an extension of your hand | Lie #12 There is such a thing as a “master knife fighter” | Lie #13 That this is a “fight” at all | Lie #14 Expect to get cut | Lie #15 The FMA are the ultimate knife fighting systems | Lie #16 It’s easy to disarm an armed opponent | Lie #17 You can successfully fight an armed attacker | Lie #18 Drills teach you how to knife fight | Lie #19 You can use a knife on another human being without legal repercussions
There are many so-called “experts” who claim to be able to teach you either knife fighting or defense against a knife. The problem is that most of them are just teaching regurgitated martial arts, usually from the Philippines. While I have lots of respect for the martial arts of other lands, the truth is that you live where you do. Odds are you are not in a “knife culture.” And that means that whatever you do regarding knives must:
A) Work to keep you alive against how you are likely to be attacked by a knife in your homeland
B) If it does work, not put you in prison for murder or manslaughter
While B is important, it only becomes an issue if you survive A. Unfortunately, based on a lot of what I have been seeing taught with my own eyes or encountered while working with the students of these self-proclaimed “knife experts” getting past A is going to be a whole lot tougher than you think. Quite simply, most knife assaults are assassination attempts…how they occur is significantly different than how one “knife fights.” While I express my opinions on other knife instructors elsewhere, what this page is for is to help you avoid some of the more common pitfalls with what is being taught out there.
Oh yeah, one more thing, always remember…it’s your ass on the line out there, so don’t let *anybody* tell you that you don’t have the right to ask about these things or think for yourself.
Read the rest, here, then let’s have a good discussion on the subject.
Imagine that….your best bet is to go to http://www.ammoseek.com and get what you can before the left’s violence causes prices to go insane as people panic buy. Forwarned and all that…
“The public should expect to continue to observe an increased law enforcement and security presence across communities in public places. Our law enforcement community also continues to take action against those who attempt to engage in activities that could put Americans at risk. There are more than 100 Joint Terrorism Task Forces at work across the country in partnership with state and local law enforcement to prevent attacks in the homeland.”
An aside: I just love how we’ve picked up European terms to describe the US….”homeland,” sheesh. Next step is to start referring to it either as “the Motherland” (USSR favorite) or “the Fatherland” (Nazi favorite)…
Anyway, this is one of those times one should set aside an hour or two and check out their Get Home Bag, freshen up supplies, ensure all mags are loaded with defense level ammo (dump the FMJ out of your pistol mags), etc, etc, etc.
Originally posted 13 Dec 13; follow up re-post on 30 Nov 15.
It’s that time again. Contrary to what some say, your rifle needs to be prepared not only for hot weather, but for cold weather also. It’s not that difficult or time consuming to do, and the dividends will be superb, in that the rifle will work when you need it.
Make sure you strip your rifle and wipe off any excess lube (grease) or oil so that only a slight film remains. The reason is simple: In very, very cold temperatures, excess lube or oil can cause it to freeze up on you when you need it most. Virtually dry rifles are happy rifles in the winter.
If you’re the “maintenance averse” type of person, and you’re shooting an AR platform, consider the ‘Fail Zero’ Bolt Carrier Group, which can be found here:
Here’s the product description from their site:
“This Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) comes fully assembled and ready to drop into most mil spec M16, M4 or AR15 upper receivers. All critical parts are coated with EXO Nickel Boron technology that provides permanent dry lubricity, extreme durability and increases both wear and corrosion resistance. Our patented Nickel Boron coating will reduce friction and improve the overall performance of your rifle.
Nickel Boron treated parts include:
- Bolt & Extractor (5.56/.223 compatible)
- Bolt Carrier
- Cam Pin
- Carrier Key
- Firing Pin”
DTG staff have been using these for well over
a 2 years now, and they perform flawlessly in hot, warm, cool, or cold weather. They’re spendy at $230 each, price has come down quite a bit at $159 for a complete BCG, and you’re certainly getting a deal but, and as with everything else, you get what you pay for. Snap one or two up while you can, especially in light of the precipice society stands on the brink of…
When I do add lubrication (which is rarely), all I use is either Frog Lube OR Gunzilla on both the upper and the BCG when cleaning, leaving a light coating when finished (meaning wiped off almost completely). My bottom line? It works first time, every time, and I don’t need to carry a gallon of CLP in my gear when not operating in winter. A side note on both Frog Lube and Gunzilla is that they are superb rust inhibitors. So much so that we coat our knife blades and tomahawk edges with it as well.
Once your rifle has been winterized, make sure you go to the range and confirm your zero on a very, very cold day and note the change in point of impact between temperature ranges. You will most likely have to adjust your length of pull, depending on the outer garments you’re wearing.
For those of you who have M1A type rifles, make sure you wipe all the grease out of the bolt raceways and off the top of the hammer, the top of the inside of the receiver, the bolt lug (you can leave the bolt roller alone, though) and generally leave only a very, very light coating. It would also behoove you to clean the gas tube and piston.
Let us know in the comments other things you do to winterize your platform or winter shooting tips.
The original, is here. What follows below is for your edification…and personal motivation. Ever notice how PT is a recurring theme no matter who’s blog you go to in the liberty/preparedness/NPT community? It’s for a reason…remember the bottom line:
Starting 1 August we’ve been revisiting health and fitness. Today continues that trend of pursuing health, hence, it should be a salutary Sunday, quite literally.
We have the usual deficiencies of an older American, to wit, a too-sedentary existence and far too much weight. Some of that came about because a 2004 parachute mishap pretty much ended our ability to indulge our then-favorite exercise, long cross-country runs. But most of it is because we’re as lazy as the next guy, enjoy researching and writing which are largely sedentary activities, and like our chow all too much.
This time, we’ve decided to improve strength and endurance while taking off a significant amount of weight. We’re doing it three ways:
What works for strength is strength training — weight lifting. We have mentioned before that most if not all SF guys are either/or: weights guys or running guys. You’re reading a running guy, who hated weights. Hating it is all the more reason to do it, and all the reason to do it more. So for the last two months, twice a week the day begins with a professional trainer who was a competitive weightlifter, in a weights-focused gym.
Each session is personalized,, although there may be more than one client working out at the same time (there’s an upcharge for fully private lessons). It begins with warmup stretches, then includes work with resistance bands and strength reps on weights, before concluding with intense metabolic conditioning. On a bad day, you leave conscious you’ve had a tough workout. On a good day, you leave smoked.
Already, the strength and flexibility benefits have been profound, and it’s dawned that had we done this when the cast came off in 04, we’d probably have returned to full performance, or something very close, within a few months thereafter. Also, there’s a lot less drama when we need to assume a low position, whether it’s getting into the prone on the range or getting supine on a mechanic’s creeper in the workshop.
Rippetoe isn’t making his stuff up: strength training really works.
Despite the strength gains and some hints of dimensional changes, the strength training has not addressed the elephant in the room — which would be your humble blogger, if he only had grey skin and a prehensile schnoz. That’s the weight, which we’ll get to.
We’d been slacking off on cardio, and our objective has always been 1000 calories of cardio a day, mixed modes (bike, rowing, walking). Interestingly though, in the past when we resumed a PT walk after a month or so off, there have been particular muscle pains associated with that. Thanks, we think, to the squats that are a key component of the strength training, there was no pain when resuming brisk walks. A postprandial walk (or ride) also cures the organism of its desire for a postprandial nap.
If we’re making 1000 calories a day, we’d have 7k at the end of a week. Last week was pretty pathetic, under 3k, but then, we only managed 20 miles of distance. This week we’ll be looking to make the calories and see how close we get to 100 miles (and that will, of course, be heavy on the bicycle. 100 miles of rowing in a week and we’d have the arms of a Greek god).
We don’t count regular daily activities, even if we do hours of hard yard work in the hot sun.
Ah yes, time to address the elephant in the room. Your Humble Blogger is fat. And keenly aware from past experience, that one can’t PT his way out of a weight problem. Weight loss is a highly personal thing, but as we see it there are three basic factors in weight metabolism:
- Simple thermodynamics. Energy in food (E), minus daily routine subsistence requirements (S), minus exercise burn (X), yields figure W.
(E – S) -X = W.
If W is a positive number, it contributes to weight gain. If a negative, to weight loss. This is a valid equation but it’s an oversimplification, because the organism seeks to maintain homeostasis or to store energy and thus seems to reduce S when E is reduced! So the E has to be lowered rather abruptly to achieve and maintain a negative W.
The two figures easiest to control here, of course, are E and X.
- Weight biochemistry. Because of bioavailability and other things that are coming close to being understood, what you eat is as important as how much you eat. In particular, the longtime enemy of nutritionists, saturated fat, seems to be comparatively harmless, and the real villain is looking more like sugars and other carbohydrates. But with calorie restriction, there’s really not a lot of overhead in the meal plan for calorie-rich carbs. Snacks? Sorry, chips and cookies, we’re looking at carrots and celery. (Spices help).
- Self-discipline. Historically, in our case, only by spreadsheeting the calories in and calories out have we ever been able to get our W into weight-loss mode. There’s a certain Heisenberg effect, where the measurement itself affects the result — in this case, in the desired direction. Works for us; might not for you.
So to get from there, to a plan, what we do is:
- Reduce calorie burn to 1700 a day;
- Alter what we eat away from carbs to a degree (the 1700 limit influences this, also; you simply can’t eat filling meals and have room for empty carbs under such a limit).
- Get more rigid about the exercise schedule so we’re not looking at the clock at 11 PM and bemoaning lost days.
Sunday night family dinner is a weekly cheat. A cheat is generally a bad idea; it has to be an escape valve without becoming a gateway for a culture of cheating.
We expect to lose, on average 2 lbs a week and we’d like to shed a whopping 50 pounds — while getting stronger and fit. The thermodynamic equation suggests weight loss would be faster than that (Δ-3500 kcal ≈ – 1 lb.) but we know from experience, it isn’t (that’s the effect of weight biochemistry and the body’s search for homeostasis). If this is the case, we’ll hit -50 lb. some time in the dead of winter; if weight loss tapers off to a pound a week, sometime in the warm months next year.
Intermediate goals: by Christmas and again by next birthday (which is midsummer) we should see significant weight loss and strength and endurance increase.
First week’s results: Δ weight -3.3 lb, distance 20.42 miles, calorie burn 2646 (37.8% of goal)
This week’s plan:
|Week 2, August 2016||S||M||T||W||T||F||S|
|AM||Cardio Walk||Strength||Cardio Bike or Row||Strength||Cardio Bike or Row||Cardio Walk||Bike Distance ride|
|PM||Bike Mid Distance||Cardio Bike or Row||Bike Distance ride||Cardio Bike or Row||Bike Distance ride||Nordic Trak||?|
The plan, of course, is always subject to being overturned by events, weather, etc. Not counting any calories burnt in strength training, that’s conservatively about 5800 calories and 70 miles. It should yield the 2 lb. weight loss sought, given discipline in eating.
Timely re-posting, nudged by a couple of readers. Now that it’s officially summer, the pack contents will obviously change, but the principles remain the same.
First, DTG wishes everyone a
‘Happy New Year!’ ‘Happy Summer Solstice!’ in the hope that no matter how bad things look, the training, equipping and preparing you do and help others do will mitigate whatever we are facing as a People (which is coming at us faster than a freight train bearing down on an unguarded railroad crossing with a couple of teenagers necking in a convertible who think the whistles they are hearing are in their heads).
To that end the first post of the year is going to focus on the importance of equipping yourself to make it home from wherever your commute may take you during the work day. For those of you working from home, ‘good on ya’! For the rest of us, we may have a ways to go, and our personal vehicle might not be available for part, or all, of the trip.
That said, let’s look at what we might need for winter (adapt for your own locality and weather patterns) every day in order to stay functional:
- Complete set of sturdy clothing – If you work in an environment that ‘business’ or ‘business casual’ is the norm, your dress slacks, button down shirt/bouse and sport coat/blazer is not going to cut it when trying to make it home, especially in bad weather. If you have to traverse any less than hospitable areas, the dress clothes will mark you as a target to the local mutant zombie biker types lurking about. You’ll want long sleeve shirts/blouses, field capable pants with belt (no camouflage, earth tones or greys are good – anything that won’t stand out, color wise), a weather appropriate jacket that’s minimally water resistant and optimally Goretex level water proof, and well-broken in boots and good, sturdy socks, such as the Vermont ‘Darn Tough’ USMC type of socks. You get the picture; this needs to be in your vehicle every time you leave home. Get a small storage container to keep it in so it’s unobtrusive.
Personally, for my Get Home Bag, I keep a pair of Danner ‘Combat Hikers’ with a rolled up pair of Vermont ‘Darn Tough’ USMC Over-The-Calf socks in them. There are other good quality boots and socks available; I prefer the Danner’s and the ‘Darn Tough’ brand for SHTF scenarios. A note on the Danner hikers – they seem to run about a half-size bigger than usual, which really surprised me, as my experience on other Danner boots is the opposite – they run a tad smaller than size – so to make them fit perfectly, I put a pair of these in them (well worth the money) and it worked beautifully:
I’m not relying on theory here or other folks’ experiences; I’ve put about 40 miles on the combination pictured above doing training walks with a ruck weighing between 65 and 80 lbs for distances between 2 and 10 miles. Very comfortable, very durable, and they don’t look any different than when I bought them. Interestingly enough, you don’t have to pay an arm and a leg for these – I got my Danner’s on eBay for $60 out the door. The insoles I bought at Amazon for about $35. Less than $100 all told, and worth every penny. Next, they don’t necessarily look, ‘military,’ which, when you’re trying to blend in to ‘everyday’ scenes, might be a good thing.
I don’t necessarily think that walking will be my primary means to get home (the farthest I reasonably travel for business during a day is 50 miles from home), but if I end up having to walk, I won’t fail because my feet gave out due to poor quality footwear. Consider that for a bit and then make your choice.
Pants & Shirt – I don’t like blue jeans as cotton is, ‘the cloth of death’ in cold, wet weather. I prefer a blend, such as the cotton-poly or nylon-cotton pants available. Brand doesn’t matter, so long as you remember earth tones or greys, and no camouflage. The idea again, is not to look like some sort of tactical ‘operator’ walking the route you’ve chosen. The idea is to look so unobtrusive that you may not be noticed, and if you are, scant attention is paid to you. Remember the primary objective: Get home to take care of your precious cargo. Remember, you get what you pay for, so get the best you can afford. Here’s a couple of examples:
Jackets we use include the Tru-Spec H20 coupled with the Wiggy’s jacket liner. Check that out, here. Wiggy’s products are extremely well made and really will make the difference in nasty, cold, wet weather when you’re walking. The material used for insulation actually repels the water and keeps insulating much better than wool, even when wet. As always, your call, these are only suggestions based on what we have and do use in training and every day preps.
Last item for clothing: A hat. We recommend having two. One for rain (boonie type) that’s either water resistant on it’s own, or treated with copious amounts of Camp Dry or other brands of silicone. The other hat should be a fleece or wool ‘watch cap’ so that you lose as little heat as possible in really cold weather. Sure, when you’re walking you can regulate your body temp by taking the hat off for short periods (more than 80% of your body heat loss is through the head), but having it will also warm you up quickly.
Next time, we’ll talk about the ‘get home’ bag and various options you can choose for personal protection that are unobtrusive. Oh…one more thing: To actually get home, you’ll need to be in somewhat decent shape physically. That means PT. Great time to start, too, as it’s the first of the year!
We’re always looking for great quality gear at affordable prices; this time was no different. The objective was to find a solution that allowed the carry of a service pistol in a vertical rig that was well made, didn’t get in the way of the H-Harness, could hold a variety of pistols, and would be worn as Level 1 (on your person at all times). Currently, our pistols are carried on our H-Harness, which works fine, except when you take off the harness for whatever reason. We like to have our general purpose knife and pistol on us when we’re otherwise stripped down from our standard field equipment, but are still in a possible hostile environment, or doing specialized training that is less than optimum wearing a fully equipped H-Harness.
In our search, I came across the BDS LIGHT Vertical Shoulder Holster from BDS Tactical, here, pictured above. It comes in all the popular colors or camouflage patterns, except old school woodland, which would be nice. I chose Coyote Brown because it can adapt itself to civilian attire more readily than Multicam. I don’t do black for a universal piece of equipment that I plan on using in any and all situations, nor do I use any camouflage pattern.
Here’s their description:
“The BDS LIGHT Vertical Shoulder Holster is designed to fit military and civilian semi-automatic pistols such as the Beretta 92, All Glocks, and the H&K USP and USPC’s. The holster is designed to be easily converted for use with different weapon system to include those with illumination and laser devices.
The holster is made of 1000 Denier Cordura, heavy duty webbing and premium hook/loop material for extreme durability.
This holster is available in Coyote Brown, Black, Multi-Cam, Ranger Green and Foliage Green.
The Vertical Shoulder Holster’s shoulder straps have 4 adjustable straps to be worn stand alone, over body armor or Flight Vest. The BDS Tactical Vertical Shoulder Holster comes with adjustable back strap, and adjustable sternum strap with side release buckle assures a custom fit.
To fit the handgun to the Universal Holster, first fit the barrel length by adjusting the internal muzzle stop. Then, close the hook flap around the holster for the width of the slide and the trigger guard. To keep the fit of your holster, secure the 2” hook and loop holster strap. Last, adjust the thumb break tight and your holster is ready for use. An adjustable Belt Attachment Loop is included on he holster for attaching to waist belt (Duty, Rigger, Modular, etc.) The BDS Light Vertical Shoulder Holster can be fitted to must handguns (please specify model.) Offered for both right and left hand shooters. The BDS Light Vertical Shoulder Holster comes in eight colors. This product is made 100% Made in Oceanside California and comes with a Lifetime Warranty.”
Price Point: $47.50 from the manufacturer is pretty fair, especially when the same holster from various retailers is selling at about $80 elsewhere.
Options: As this is the “light” model, it comes in four colors and can be sewn for both right and left handed people.
Delivery Time: About a month from order, as these are not mass produced. They sew by the order and then send it through their QC program to ensure you get a ‘first quality’ product. Necessary evil, I suppose, if you want a really good product.
Communication: They are pretty good about letting you know the status of the order; the closer you get to production finish, the more notifications you get of where the product is, and then once shipped, it’s fairly quick, as they use Priority Mail.
Out of the Box Impression:
- Extremely well made. In fact, it’s so well made that it should prove to be ‘bomb proof’ in normal to above average use in the field doing NPT training.
- The cordura pad pistol grip pad that outlines the area of the pistol grip will not be too short for the grip of any pistol holstered in it and you is a nice touch to eliminate or keep down any chafing that might occur from the pistol grip itself from rubbing on your torso. Also serves as a ‘sweat shield’.
- The holster is provided with very long adjustment straps and keepers to fit a wide range of body types. I’m 5’10” and 178-180, depending on the day, and I had to bring the straps in almost 2/3’s of their length to fit it over my outer shirt.
- Lightly padded shoulder/chest straps that have a couple MOLLE loops; another nice touch as you could, if needs be, attach a couple small accessory pouches (think USGI lensatic compass pouch size). The padding is very comfortable and promises fatigue free wear for long periods of time.
- Horizontal Magazine Pouches – Well made; don’t like velcro closures on mag pouches, but it’s a small thing. Glock 17 mags fit nicely; they’re a bit loose for single stack mags like 1911 8 rounders.
- It is not for people with smaller torsos, like women or short men (those of you who are 5’6″ or under are going to have a hell of a time adapting it). The holster comes all the way up the side from the belt retention strap at the bottom of the holster to keep the pistol in place.
- You’re going to have to invest some time. It’s not a simple, ‘zip, zip, zap’ it’s done and you’re wearing it, especially as you must adjust the front, back and sternum straps quite a bit. Took me about 45 minutes of tinkering for both the holster (my Glock 19 is about the smallest pistol you can put in it to fit); maybe faster for some.
- Adjusting the thumb break is a bitch. The good point? Once it’s set, it is NOT coming undone. Velcro is attached on both sides of the strap, so you need help breaking the velcro loose to move the strap larger or smaller to retain the pistol properly as well as operate smoothly (no, not for ‘quick draw’ purposes – strictly for getting the pistol in and out of the holster in an efficient manner). I used a couple of butter knives, sliding one on each side of the female snap portion of the thumb break and moving them back and forth while sliding the thumb break strap to the desired position. As the adjustment is such a pain, BDS might consider a demo video on what they use/how they adjust the double velcrod straps on the holster and possible include a couple of stiff pieces of plastic maybe 3/4 inches wide, 6 or 7 inches long and an eighth of an inch thick to allow for less hassle in adjustment.
- Adjusting the Muzzle Stop strap is less of a pain, but it’s obvious it’s made for longer barreled pistols. My full size 1911 fits it like a dream. When they say in the description, “all Glocks” that’s not entirely accurate. It would swallow any Glock smaller than a 19. Suggestion: Have one for shorter barrels like the Glock 19 or the Kimber Pro Carry series.
Overall Rating: Out of the box, I rate it as a 4 Star due to the points made above. It was worth the half-MSRP price the manufacturer charged without question. Yeah, I know, some may say, “well, you want your cake and eat it, too!” Well, not necessarily, but I do think the suggestions above might help with increasing the number of people who purchase the holster. If the adjustment effort doesn’t bother you, it’s worth the risk to buy it now, and get it before the price goes up.
Sometime this summer I’m going to be heading to my training area for 4 or 5 days with the objective of wearing the holster non-stop to see how it feels/functions during bush time. More to follow when I hit the field.