Watch Pastor Joe Fox as he gives you sage advice.
May 2020 UPDATE: 42 states have been under de-factco martial law from on or about the 3rd week of March when ‘Stay at Home’ and ‘Business Shut Down’ orders were issued by many state governors, in, what is my opinion, a panic move to ensure that if everything really went South, they couldn’t be personally blamed for the death of many of their citizens. Not that they care, but they didn’t want the blame. Add to that, a great many of the governors said, ‘To Hell with Our State and US Constitutions, I AM THE GOVERNOR and YOU WILL RESPECT MAH AUTHORITAH!!!
So, here we are a couple months into our national grounding…we can go outside, but can’t leave the yard and can’t go visit our friends and can’t do much of anything, unless, of course, the GOVERNOR arbitrarily says, “Sure, you can do that.”
I know, I’m digressing, but still, for you folks just figuring out you’re in deep kimche (GI expression for being in trouble – PS – I LOVE KIMCHE!!!) for about the next 6 to 8 weeks at the most, you have a very small window to get yourself set up to resist the civil unrest that is sure to follow the supply chain breaking down, the deflation followed by hyper inflation (the center of the market cannot hold), and the large amount of zombie like indoctrinated liberals who believe it is your duty to feed, clothe and shelter them to the degree that your own family will die because they, the liberals, are of a higher species.
Short answer: Anyone comes to your door to take your food, your clothes, your property, shoot them in the face. But, to do that, you need to get prepared to spend some money and do some abbreviated training and break a few executive orders to meet on the ‘down low’ with trusted friends who have skills you may not and get some training.
Ok, here we go.
Last update: Mother’s Day, 10 May 2020
It’s most likely going to get ugly. You can see that by the way people are getting more aggressive in their driving, more focused on avoiding eye contact when you’re doing your ‘essential shopping’ and how people you may have known for a long time don’t want to talk much on the phone and that on social media (which I do not participate in or follow – the wife is giving me the info) people are becoming even more polarized than they were when our president was inaugurated.
This being the case, YOU, yes, YOU have until about 20 June (a great anniversary for me personally – first day of Active Duty in ’73 – yup, I’m older than dirt) this year to get yourself and your family’s ‘shit’ together. Follow this outline if you can, and add something else in it: Study and training. Across the board. First priority: First Aid/Medical training – go online. Simultaneously, long term food storage. Get your canned goods up. Proteins, vegetables, etc. Garden. If you can own chickens or rabbits, do it. Eggs, poultry meat, and rabbit meat. You can get all the knowledge you need for a crash course on the internet.
Then tactics & weapons – the demand for ammo is still through the roof, but get yourself an AR, a pistol you can handle (no, don’t get a revolver because while it’s simple, it’s a bitch to reload under stress) and as much ammo for the weapons as possible. Then survival. This is not contradictory. Yes, you need to know how to effectively use a weapon, but you also need, desperately, how to tend to wounds, injuries, infections and disease not typically seen in a ‘normal’ setting. If for any reason the grid goes down, you need to know how to purify water; how to put up food so it will last, you need communications training, you need intelligence training (Culper’s got the best out there that I’ve seen, but you look around and find out for yourself). He might have a crash course available.
In a nutshell, you need to burn the midnight oil at this stage.
Bottom line: Your entire existence from now until mid-summer needs to be one of study, exercise, training, study, frugal purchasing, setting up your home or ‘hidey hole’ so your family can make it, and so on. Problem right now on getting to a ‘hidey hole’ property is that the locals in all areas are showing signs of telling non-locals to stay the hell away. That does not portend good things.
Remember, there’s an old saying that I live by: “There are no victims, only volunteers….” So, if you decide to gamble and don’t take these measures, when you’re watching your house get torched and other things I won’t go into right now, YOU chose that ending to your life.
It’s been over
6 8 13 years since I wrote this under my since retired ‘nom de guerre’, and my very good friend at Western Rifle Shooter’s Association again asked me if I’d mind updating it (same one who asked last time). This is a good base plan for folks you might know just waking up to the fact that things are spinning faster in the vortex than ever before, and this might be the best last chance for them to get themselves in gear. Feel free to add or take away as your situation and local area conditions may require. This is by no means the best or only plan, rather, one that may help someone with no knowledge or skills. There are other good perspectives on this subject out there, and they shouldn’t be discounted. Much like this one.
You may be thinking, “WORST case?? What could POSSIBLY get any worse than this?? There’s nothing I can do. Things being the way they are, it’s basically over…all we can do is wait for the hammer to fall.” Well, for one thing, that’s not true! Many folks just like you don’t agree with or believe that perspective in the slightest! There’s a lot you can do! And, if this plan helps get you thinking of what you can do instead of what you can’t do, we all might just benefit from your action! In fact, if enough folks begin to think about what they can do, we just might avert the “worst case” and many more of us may live through these ‘interesting times’ that are certainly headed our way! So, while you’re reading this, keep that thought in mind, ok?
This plan is divided into two parts: The items required and the timetable to do it in. Remember, prudent people see danger coming and prepare while the foolish do nothing (or just sit at their keyboard and ENDLESSLY BITCH about how terrible things are) and suffer for it. To put us all on an equal footing for the case presented, let’s get ready to plan by using the following scenario as a back drop:
To be sure, ten weeks, especially today, when national and world tensions increasing by the hour, can seem to be a very, very long time in terms of ‘getting prepared/trained/fit/mentally ready’ to protect and defend your family, neighborhood, community and country from marauding apocalypse zombies coming from whatever direction or source you care to focus on. For now, rather than looking at a fictional futuristic even, let’s look at what’s happened in the last 7 years incrementally. Taken from a comment a Knuckledraggin’ My Life Away, here. (Note: Original edited for clarity and brevity.)
- Executive orders permitting Interpol complete carte blanch [sic] to operate within our borders with no restrictions, oversight, accountability, even to the state department or the executive branch. Never mind congress.
- State governor executive orders basically placing whole scale state populations on house arrest, backed up by carefully planned arrests of ‘dissenters’ trying to make a living and pay their bills.
- A[n]…..election process so corrupted and rigged to be all but worthless in regards to what you and I vote for, especially with the move to have ‘mail in voting.’
- 15 plus years of equipping, arming, violently indoctrinating…and militarizing, through federal auspices, civilian law enforcement. The fact that law enforcement officers are arresting people for being alone on a beach or taking their children to a park is prima facie evidence on what they will do if ordered to confiscate your property, your weapons, or your family.
- Creation of a continental internal federal police state with powers that ignore every personal liberty based protection [from government overreach] in the US Constitution.
- Numerous executive branch acts of limiting arms, their manufacture, importation and sale [to citizens], void of due process of law. [Current implications from the Oval Office are that a series of ‘Executive Orders’ will further curtail the Second Amendment bypassing Congress as well s the Constitutional amending process.]
- States openly calling for the confiscation of semi-automatic rifles in places like Lexington (yes, THE Lexington).
- UN troops to be invited into the US for the purpose of assisting the US government in combating violent extremism. [Extremely violent criminal gangs and religions with penchants for beheading and burning captives alive are not included in the definition of ‘extremists’.]
- Daily calls from the state co-opted ‘media’ repeating the message to unilaterally disarm the citizenry.
So, how do you get ready for an imminent disaster affecting the entire nation like that? Not possible you say? Think for a moment: The Law of Unintended Consequences usually provides extreme results beyond those anticipated or planned in any situation it becomes involved with. So, that being said, let’s examine this, even if only from an academic perspective.
First, consider the description. It’s certainly very possible now; these things have happened and are happening. But is it nefarious in design? Simply put: Yes, the commies are going for broke.
Even with that, many agree, some disagree, but what’s relevant as you read this is what you think. Consider current affairs in Eastern, and now, Western Europe. Examine current affairs in our own country. Consider the publicized plans of various agencies to quell ‘civil unrest.’ Think about the publicized military exercises that name military veterans and religious groups as ‘domestic terrorists.’ And then, before you go any further, make a determination: Is this a bunch of paranoid “tin foil hat” crap or maybe, just maybe, is there something to this and you, gentle reader, need to do something positive to take care of your family and friends. If you had the time (which you don’t, believe me), you could do your own investigation from objective sources, file Freedom of Information Act Requests (FOIA) and find that it is, in fact, not only plausible, but the stage is being set every day for just such an eventuality.
If you decide the facts don’t support your personal preparedness, just toss this out. Delete. File 13. Trash. Round file. I hope you enjoy your life and are prosperous. Read no further.
However, if you decide facts presented do support getting started preparing, you have much to think about, much to do, and much to gain in the way of putting yourself, your family and your friends in a better position of an increased chance of living through it.
Think about it. I’ll wait. You’re still here?
Ok, let’s get started.
Before anything else you must accept that you have very limited time in the way of making purchases (you never know what is going to be banned next by Executive Order or agency decree, or as things get sportier, how much and how fast prices will sky rocket on necessary items), so you need to read this, comprehend it, and take decisive action! No putting this off! Everything mentioned herein will get more expensive by the day (bit by bit, but one day it’s going to take off, then, as time grows shorter, by the hour). Example: Right now you can get a 1200 round case for $
490 $550, shipped (about .41 .46 cents a round) if you can find it! Tomorrow? It might be ‘unobtanium’. When you take into account the old axiom that you have 1,000 rounds per rifle in reserve, and 3,000 per rifle on hand is only adequate for SHTF/WROL scenarios, you might want to start some budgeting. Soon as you finish reading this. The old rule of, “you snooze, you lose” will take on major significance to you personally in this case, because what you lose might just be your life, or at the minimum, what’s left of your tattered freedom!
So, what’s the very first thing you do? Simply, start a PT program. See the paragraph on packs below. Fitness is the foundation upon which your preparedness plans, tools, and actions should be built. There are many out there; find the one that’s right for you. Make sure if you haven’t exercised hard in a long time that you get medical clearance; dropping dead from a heart attack doesn’t do your preparedness planning any good, nor does it help your family. Once you’ve gotten into your exercise program and have made some progress getting over the ‘sore muscle syndrome’, start including walks with your ruck (pack) on for varying distances, light weight at first, and add to it as time goes on.
Now, what’s the first thing you buy? You can argue all you want about it, but the simple answer is to take stock of what you have on hand FIRST, because that will be your determining factor. A weapon is essential, but if you have a rifle (even a .22) but you don’t have something that will either provide or help you get things you must have to live you don’t necessarily need a weapon first. Like what? How about a water purifier of some sort? How about non-perishable food items? How about hygiene items? The list can go on, but the point is not to presume that a bigger, better weapon is the first thing. It may very well be the first thing you want, but you must make yourself think in terms of needs based upon what is instead of what may be or is not. For the point of discussion, though, we’ll assume you don’t have a weapon at all and start there, because if you don’t, you need a weapon more than anything else. No weapon, no protection…where it counts…at home.
So, what do you get? A pistol? Shotgun? Rifle? There are as many opinions on the subject as there are weapon choices, but most are influenced by the likes and dislikes of the expert. Most times, getting a general purpose weapon (something that can do a great many things well, some things good, and only a few things poorly) is the best choice. Especially if you don’t have unlimited funds.
So, simply put: Get a Rifle.
All things being equal and you have reasonable vision and average muscle control and dexterity, if you can only have (afford) one weapon, make it a rifle. A rifle has more power, more ability to stop and put down any target at ranges in excess of a pistol/revolver or shotgun’s maximum effective range. A quick example of “knock down” power (aka terminal velocity): A 300 Winchester Magnum with a 200 grain bullet that hits its target at 1,000 yards (to illustrate how far this is, you would have to take 36 inch steps every second for 16 and a half minutes to walk 1,000 yards) with more energy than a .44 Magnum does at “point blank” range. Get the picture? Something or someone hit with a rifle goes down and usually does not get back up. Period. But on the chance they do, a follow up shot will settle the issue. Only after all other basic necessities are acquired should you consider getting a pistol, especially if you’re on a limited budget. So then, which rifle? Simplicity is the key here, especially as you may have only shot a rifle a few times in your life or others who will use the rifle fall into that category. So, you need a rifle that’s easy to learn to operate, doesn’t require a lot of maintenance, is fairly accurate, and won’t take all the money you have available to purchase. Here’s an example that fits those requirements:
The K98 or M48 Mauser (later model) is rugged, can take down anything in North America, ammunition is cheap, and it’s maintenance requirements are extremely simple! Cost: Depending on if you get a Yugoslavian M48 or go for the WWII German, you can pay as little as
$250 (prices are rising!) for “Service Grade” for the rifle and about $500 $575 for a case of surplus ammunition. So, for about $750 $ 950 $1,000 or $800 $1,300 or so, you have the weapon category taken care of. Remember, the K98/M48 is a good general purpose rifle, but it is purely for defense. It’s a bolt action, and as such, aimed fire combined with it’s large projectile and ability to punch through light barriers is its advantage. These relics have another really good advantage to them in that if all else fails, they are superb clubs and will put down whomever they are hit with. If you have a bit more disposable income, or you don’t need extensive training or are ex-military and want a more prolific weapon that you may have had some familiarization with, you may want to consider the ubiquitous AR-15 carbine family or its descendants. Try to get one chambered in 5.56mm rather than .223 caliber. The differences are minute, but the 5.56mm chamber can take the differences in pressure from the .223 more easily than the .223 chamber can take the 5.56mm pressure differences. It’s a peace of mind thing.
These will cost you anywhere from $800 to $1500 (no change there, as of today), depending on the source, and the price for a case of 55gr Full Metal Jacket (FMJ) will run
$350 $450 and up per 1000 rounds for M-193 55gr. M-855 is still available; get it while you can. Another option at this point might be the 77gr “Open Tip Match (OTM). It’s barrier blind (means it will go through the barrier) and still do a number on the zombie. You’re going to pay twice as much as you will for 55gr or 62gr, (about $900 per 1K shipped – when you can find it) but you get better performance, so seek good advice from friends with expertise and then make your choice. Next, you have to add in an absolutely minimum five seven 30 round magazines, so that will be another $88 to $180 at the bare minimum, again, depending on your source and type of magazine chosen (Magpuls are more expensive than ‘old school’ AR magazines, but they take more of a beating from some reports, and they have a model with a window in the side along with a ’rounds left indicator’ which is handy). So, at the low end, you’re talking about $1,350 ; at the high end, $1,975 or more. About twice as expensive as the Mauser set up, but it’s your call. Remember this: The more complex the weapon, the more intricate the cleaning and maintenance requirements are and the increased amount of training required to effectively employ it. (ABOVE ALL: Learn appropriate weapon safety and handling! LEAVE NOTHING TO CHANCE!!) This estimate doesn’t include necessary maintenance and cleaning solvents, either. A good lube is your friend; we recommend a couple: Frog Lube and Gunzilla. You can find them anywhere. And if you choose the AR, it doesn’t take an awful lot, so a bottle can last quite some time.
A quick disclaimer: All costs have been taken from September 2016 advertisements, and likely price increases will occur depending on local, national and international situations.
To be sure, there are many other fine weapons you could go with, but the two examples cited above give you an idea of the spectrum you can operate in when you are getting your “kit” together. If you know someone who is experienced and knows military pattern rifles well, ask them what they think, but stay focused on ‘general purpose’ in your evaluation and choice. The various blogs in the ‘liberty/preparedness/patriot’ community are a treasure trove of information, but again, stay focused on ‘general purpose’. The 1,000 round examples with each rifle are considered to be a minimum of what one would need to stay viable in a scenario such as described above for an extended period. Something else you need to know: You are your own supply chain. You cannot count on having someone to provide extra, so everything you have needs to be able to fill more than one function. Additionally, when/if things go South, and you are lucky enough to join with others who are like minded, showing up with a good, general purpose rifle and a case of ammunition will go a long way in their determination whether or not to let you stay.
Ammunition: Just like with the weapon category, there are many, many types of ammunition you could elect to purchase. The examples above were military surplus “full metal jacket” or FMJ examples (except for the OTM – it has a small open tip, so technically, it’s not, “full” nor is it a true ‘hollow point’). FMJ is a good, all around general purpose bullet for self-defense purposes. It doesn’t expand like hunting rounds do, but it rarely fails to chamber and can reliably kill any animal or adversary you need it to take down (especially if you pay attention to shot placement, which means learning to become accurate as possible). If you’re just starting out becoming prepared, don’t waste your time and money trying to get several types of ammunition for different purposes; get the FMJ and use the money you have left to get other items you’ll need. As previously mentioned, the standard “rule of thumb” is that for each rifle you depend on, 1,000 rounds should be held in reserve to ensure you have a reasonable supply if ever needed. That means you should buy at least 1,500 rounds, so you can get proficient with your choice as soon as possible. 500 rounds will get you started, so long as you are properly trained. And remember, without ammunition, a rifle is basically an interesting paper weight.
Food: All food considered for this sort of emergency planning must be non-perishable and easily transportable. Not necessarily very light (though that helps a LOT), but transportable, meaning compactable, easily packed, able to be put in other containers, water/moisture proof, etc. Power bars, granola, tuna kits (especially the foil packet), peanut butter, honey, dried soups, etc. Light is good. Heavy, not so much, but heavy food is better than no food. And, if you are sheltering in place, think ‘compact’ rather than weight. Also calculate that you want to build your pantry until you have at least 90 days of food for however many you have in your home.
Or, you might be in a position that you have to transport on foot the things you need in order to stay out of the net cast by the nefarious elements in the scenario at the beginning of this paper. For example, if you have the choice between canned soups that are ‘ready to eat’ and ‘condensed’ soups you add water for preparation, the condensed soups should get the nod, because you get relatively the same volume of soup for about a third of the weight. Taking that a step further, if you have dried soup mixes that are vacuum sealed and water tight, you should choose those because they’re about 5 to 10% of the weight of the condensed variety, and you can pack quite a bit more, which extends your ability to live without going to the store (which might not be an option, either). Get the picture? Here’s a good source recommended by JC Dodge at Mason Dixon Tactical.
You could also choose the ubiquitous “MRE” of military fame or the freeze dried foods mountain climbers use. You could choose to take your entire stock of canned foods in your vehicle (just make sure you use these first incase you have to abandon your vehicle and you don’t have a pack horse handy!). What is essential is that you have a average of 1700 to 2000 calories a day per person in your party for a minimum of 14 days especially if you have children with you. You’ll find you actually need more than 2,000 calories per day if you’re in survival mode (moving a lot, outdoors a lot, and under extreme stress while moving and living outdoors), or in winter conditions, but averaging 2K calories (not empty calories, either, like candy) comprised of a 1/3 balance of protein, natural fats, and carbohydrates will keep everyone able to do whatever needs to be done. If you were using full MRE packs, which would mean each person would have to be able to carry 14 MRE’s. That’s a case plus 2, which is a lot, and heavy. Don’t despair, however. Creativity counts here. Through experimentation, I’ve found that 4 MRE tubes of peanut butter and one MRE pack of “trail mix” (peanuts, raisins, and ‘chocolate discs’ (military jargon for M&M’s) equals 1350 calories. Add in a 400 calorie “energy bar” and a protein bar with 20 grams of protein, you have the 2000 calories for one day. This little recipe also has almost the perfect mix of fat, protein, and carbohydrates required for optimum nutrition for a limited time on the 1/3 rule. To be sure, you’re not getting natural nutrients that green leaf and other vegetables supply, but that can be overcome with a bottle of ‘Juice Plus’ veggie or fruit supplements for each person. Weighs about 3 ounces and provides all the vegetable nutrients you need for 2 months by taking two a day (120 capsule size). You know what you and yours can and can’t eat (due to allergies). So you have to make the decision. The bottom line is that you need food for a couple of weeks (this is just travel food) and for at least 6 months (absolute bare minimum) in your pantry at home (or at a pre-selected location that you might be travelling to) against the possibilities of interruption of the supply chain.
Remember, our scenario here is national martial law reinforced by UN ‘peacekeepers’ which will profoundly impact the supply chain that operates mostly with over-the-road trucks, and a shut down of the interstate system would be just about required for this scenario to work. And that could easily happen if all they concentrated on were the truckers and requiring them to hold their cargo in place until ‘clearance’ came through.
When it comes to food in your pantry, or ‘larder’ as I call it, a quick word of caution: Do NOT tell everyone you know what you’re doing!! ESPECIALLY ON SOCIAL MEDIA!!! Especially if they’re not ‘like-minded’! Keep your preparations to yourself, even from your extended family unless they’re doing the same thing you are. Even then, keep information disclosure minimal. If emergency conditions do occur, the unprepared will remember and either show up at your door demanding what you have or they’ll turn you in to the “authorities” for ‘hoarding’ to gain favor or food.
Now, to continue, make sure you have things like cooking oil, flour, dried beans, yeast, and sea salt in addition to the various canned and comfort goods. One way to increase the size of your larder so it’s not noticed by anyone, including store employees wondering why you have 5 shopping carts full of canned goods, would be to added 4 to 6 items of whatever to your ‘normal’ list each shopping trip. Or, start shopping at the various ‘clubs’ such as Sam’s, Costco, and others that routinely see people buying large amounts of foodstuffs. As you go through and categorize your items at home, cycle through them, using the oldest first and replacing those with ‘new’ items with much later expiration dates.
Lastly, water has to be added to the food category, as many meals, especially those with dried ingredients, require the addition of water for pre-cooking preparation or rehydration (in the case of some beans, soup mixes, or other dehydrated offerings).
In “normal” circumstances, people use several gallons a day for hydration, hygiene, and cooking purposes. In a scenario such as the one we are planning for, this is one of those things that must change immediately! Chances are that water could/would be cut-off as a measure of control or as a result of utility workers not being allowed or able to reach their workplaces. The bottom line is that to depend upon a municipal water system in our scenario is just asking for trouble! To mitigate that possibility, two water sources must be developed.
The first, for the home, is stored water. Storing water isn’t difficult or very expensive at all. All you need to do is go to your local discount house and get one 6 gallon water container for camping (you know, the one’s with the spigots?) per person. They’re about $12 each. The cost for the ubiquitous American family of four would be under $50. Once at home, take ¼ cup of unscented chlorine bleach and ¾ cup of water, mix it, and rinse out each container. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then rinse again with clean water and let it dry. Now fill it to the brim and add 8 drops of the same unscented bleach per gallon (48 drops from an eyedropper for a 6 gallon container) and fill it up with water to the brim! Try not to leave any air bubbles. Put the lid on it snugly, and keep it in the basement out of the way. Just as it is, this water can be used for two years with no ill effects for anyone who drinks it. If in doubt, you can always add 8 more drops of bleach per gallon after the first year, year and a half or so has gone by and let it sit for at least 30 minutes before you consume it. A smart move is to rotate the water out once a year (if things don’t go South before then!). Take the old water and use it for whatever you want. I personally water my wife’s flowers and the vegetable garden. You can also get something called, ‘Stabilized Oxygen’ and add it to suspect water, about 10 drops per 8 ounces, wait 5 minutes, and drink it with no ill effects. The oxygen that’s in it attacks and kills all bad things swimming in it. I’ve used it on pond, stream and lake water, and have had no ill effects. It costs about $20 a bottle on Amazon. The brand I use is from ‘Dexterity Health’. I also put 120 drops in my camelback when I fill it and it keeps well. I recently used the camelback for a weekend with water that had been in it for a year, and it tasted great and again, no issues.
In reserve, if things get really bad, you always have your hot water heater to drain as well as your pipes once the water supply is cut off. The key is to drain from the lowest point in your house as soon as you know you’ve lost water pressure (usually your basement). Then, turn on the cold water and fill up your containers until the water runs out. Don’t turn on the hot water! Not yet, anyway. Wait until you know for sure the supply of cold water is not coming back anytime soon. In the mean time, get a section of hose with the female end; 8 feet is more than enough. Attach it to the bottom of your hot water heater. You now have a way to drain your hot water heater into a container as you need it. Most homes have 30 to 50 gallon (or even larger) water heaters, which are a superb reserve that will extend your range of comfort, nutrition (cooking water), hydration, and hygiene for quite awhile, relatively speaking. Apartment and condo dwellers, unless they have individual water heaters, only have the option of getting to the lowest spigot in the facility and getting extra water that way.
What about if you move out? You need something to ensure any water you forage is safe to drink. First, forget the hype about filters that have filter openings larger than 0.1 microns. Larger micron openings are not guaranteed to purify your water at all. So you need something a bit better. This option is the best option currently available today, but it is relatively expensive – almost as expensive as your rifle. But look at it this way: This system guarantees at least ONE MILLION gallons of purified water from any source. The risk of cooking, drinking, and washing with contaminated water is virtually nullified!
The basic model costs $52/ If you have an extra $125, get the Sawyer Point ZEROTWO™ Bucket Purifier Assembly Kit
This small, lightweight filter kit can provide up to 170 gallons of clean water per day. Assembly Kit Includes: Hole Cutter, a Sawyer Point ZeroTWO™ 0.02 Micron Absolute Inline Water Purifier, adapter, hose, Filter Cleaner, Filter Hanger, and detailed instruction book. All you have to provide is a 5 or 6 gallon bucket and assemble it. Talk about mobile! Here’s the link: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/water-purification-products.html
Caution: Don’t fall prey to the idea that “doing it on the cheap” will be just as good as spending everything you can afford to spend. Cheap is as cheap does! You get what you pay for! You skimp, you lose! This would be the time, if you didn’t have the cash, to use your credit card or savings. This is THE rainy day you’ve been saving for! Get the very best you can afford! Get the picture?
Medications: Everyone needs to know that they should always have on hand at least a three month supply of required medications for any emergency! To do otherwise is risking certain death, especially in the scenario we’re operating under. Whatever it takes to get your med supply up to par, do. If you have refills, get them as quickly as possible and keep the spares in a “go kit” that you cycle through, just like your larder. Aside from those meds, put a large bottle of aspirin, a large bottle of multi-vitamins, a super-sized box/package of mild laxative, a super-sized package of Amodium AD, 3 large tubes of Neosporin Plus (this has pain reliever), a couple small bottles of Oil of Cloves (dental pain reliever), 100 yards (do the math) of unwaxed dental floss, 1 pound of sea salt & 1 pound of baking soda (best tooth paste when mixed 1 to 1 and can be used to augment food supplies), a large box of assorted band aids, and 2 large bottles of hydrogen peroxide. Why peroxide? It is a superb disinfectant and can be used to treat most foot related problems (athlete’s foot, etc), periodontal disease (rinsing daily for five minutes – don’t swallow, though!), disinfecting small & large cuts or abrasions, etc. Spend $167 on this item:
FAMILY SIZE M17 FULLY STOCKED TRAUMA MEDIC BAG
The Large M17 Medic Bag is a great bag with a very nice set of contents. The G.I. style issue bag itself can be carried by the carrying handle or the back pack straps. The bag folds out three ways for easy access to all the contents.
The FA110 measures 16”x10”x13.5” and weights 12.25 lbs.
Color for this bag is Olive Drab
Contains 320 items, including:
5 Skin and Eye Wash,1 Skin Probe, 1 Hand Sanitizer, 1 Scalpel handle #3, 1 Hand Soap, 2 Scalpel Blades, 1 Calamine Lotion, 6oz., 1 Pen Light, 1 Burn Spray, 2 Suture Sets, 1 SAM / Universal Splint, 1 EFA – First Aid Book, 4 Multitrauma dressing, 6 Safety Pins, 2 BleedStop Bandages , 2 Pill Bottles, 4 Bandage Gauzes, 2”x5yds., 6 Pairs , Latex Examination Gloves, 2 Elastic Bandages, 6” , 14 Pain Relievers, 12 Elastic Bandages, 2” , 1 Tourniquet, 4 Sterile Pads, 4”x4”, 2 Irrigation Syringes, 10 Sterile Pads, 2”x2” , 4 First Aid Cream Packages, 10 Abdominal Pads, 5”x9” , 4 Triple Antibiotic Packages, 2 Eye Pads, 2 Burn Aid Packages, 2 Triangular Bandage, 5 Tape, Rolls, Adhesive, 1”, 100 Bandage Strips, 1”x3”, 15 Alcohol Wipes, 5 Butterfly Strips, 15 Iodine Wipes, 10 Bandage Strips, 2”x3”, 15 Antiseptic BZK Wipes, 10 Knuckle Bandages, 15 Clean Wipes, 3 Instant Ice Packs, 6 After Bite Wipes, 1 Stethoscope, 2 Ammonia Inhalants, 1 Lip Treatment, 1 CPR Mask, 1 EMT Shears, 7.25”, 2 Airways, 2 Stainless Steel Hemostats, 2 Tongue Depressors, 1 Pair of Tweezers, 1 Box of 100 Cotton Tips, 1 Petroleum Jelly
Here’s your link: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/medical-rescue-kits.html
Lastly, as it will save you some emergency treatment, if you’re still of child bearing age and you will have intimate relations with someone who could get pregnant or make you pregnant, get a good supply of condoms or a cervical cup. You don’t want a pregnant woman trying to deliver a baby in a bad situation!
Transportation: If you stay in place any longer than 24 hours once a national “state of emergency” has been declared, you’re most likely going to be stuck there for at least a few weeks unless you have an alternate mode of transportation other than your car, truck, SUV or mini-van. But let’s say you decide if this scenario happens, you’re jumping in whatever you have and hitting the open road. Great! First, though, don’t count on too many gas stations being open, or if they are, expect very, very high prices. A good “rule of thumb” is to quadruple the prices you see today and expect to pay that amount, in cash, per gallon! With prices hovering within range of $2.50 a gallon today, and projected to climb, figure $10 to $15 a gallon or more and for a 20 gallon tank, you need to have $300 (to be on the safe side) or more in cash on you to fill your tank once! If the gas station takes plastic, all the better! (Tip: When paying, don’t pull your wad out where others can see it. Nothing might happen immediately, but you may be followed from the gas station.) The bottom line is that you need to expect that gas will be very expensive and not on every street corner. It will most likely be ‘rationed’ as well, as the unprepared howl about ‘hoarding’ and ‘price gouging.’ You can mitigate your fuel needs by doing a couple things: First, never, and I mean never, allow your tank to get below half full! This gives you a 200 mile buffer (most vehicles get 400 miles on an average tank of gas) so that if you couldn’t refuel at all, you can at least get to a more survivable area. Keeping your tank half full also decreases the amount of cash you need just for fuel by 50% from $200 to $100 or more. The rest of your cash can be used for barter or purchasing necessities you find along the way (like more ammo or food). Second, consider the purchase of at least three 5 gallon gas cans (make sure the nozzle fits an unleaded gas coupling in modern vehicles), fill them up, and treat them with ‘Sta-bil’ gas stabilizer (the blue stuff). This will make sure the gas stays “fresh” for quite some time. Then, if nothing bad happens, cycle the gas through your lawn mower or other small engine that always seem to be out!
Some folks have opted for the All-American ATV or “Four Wheeler” that can take one to two passengers and all your gear. A major advantage to these little transports is that they do not need roads. They can also ford many streams and rivers of 3 feet or less in depth. The problem with these machines, while fun as well as useful in certain applications, is that they are terrible on gas mileage, and you can hear them coming for a long, long way unless the owners have spent the money necessary on buying certain after-market mufflers that reduce their signature to almost that of a car. Additionally, you have to have cash for refueling and plan to carry one five gallon fuel can on the machine as well to give you twice the range.
Lastly, map out a route that doesn’t take major roads like the interstate out of your area. Secondary and surface streets are the way to go. After you map it, drive it. A few times. Find out what areas are good, what are bad, and make route adjustments so you’ll have the most trouble free route out of your location to your “hidey hole”.
So, what happens if you can’t get out in your vehicle or you run out of gas? That ever present old stand-by, ‘shanks mare’, comes into play. You’ll have to walk and pack your goods. This eventuality means that you’ll need to be fit enough to walk for some miles with about 50 or more pounds on your back! (A good pack to start with is the large ALICE frame pack, that can be found on eBay. Don’t get the Chinese knock off! The frame is famous for breaking. A good example will cost about
$50 $80 or so before shipping; so figure $100. Be picky. Sure, there are other more modern packs available. Whatever you decide on for your pack, make sure it’s in an earthtone color and fits. Our staff here uses the newer USMC FILBE, but it’s somewhat expensive, as other more ‘tacticool’ packs. Function is key here. I used a large ALICE for 18 years and didn’t have any major problems.) Impossible you say?? Nope. Not at all. Start your fitness upgrade today. After you read this, go out and walk around the block. Do one sit up. Do one push up. There. Not so hard. Tomorrow do the same thing and the day after, walk a little further and do two sit ups and two push ups. Repeat until you’re doing a couple sets of sit ups and push ups with 25 repetitions and walking 3 miles fast! This goal can easily be accomplished in 10 weeks! Most likely, if you’re “average”, you can do it in 5 weeks, and then have the bonus of getting in even better shape by Inauguration day! Walking in the cold, by the way, is good for you! Remember, PT is God’s gift to those who wish to extend their lives.
If you have to go on foot, you need to make sure you have very good boots or shoes (do not skimp on your footwear!), maps, and a compass (and know how to use it). There are “how to” sites all over the internet on this subject – a five minute search will bring up a nice variety. There are also schools for those who like having someone show them personally. Here’s one: https://defensivetraininggroup.wordpress.com/2015/02/17/essential-skills-land-navigation-1-2-2425-april-2015/
I do not recommend a GPS because it can be used to fix your position by an aggressor and the satellites all GPS units use will, in our little scenario, have an error margin of up to 100 meters programmed into them for civilians to make them useless. You’ll also need batteries (lots of them and the weight adds up and the supply is finite!). You see, an aggressive government like the fictional one in our scenario will not want you to have the same accuracy in navigating as it does. The best compass in my experience is the USGI compass, now made by Cammenga. It’s about $80 on average, but it’s worth every penny! You can get yours here: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/navigation-products.html
If you can only afford one, fine. Just take care of it. If you have a chance to get two, do it! There’s an only rule you need to try to follow: “Two is one and one is none”. Sure, redundancy is repetitive (pun intended), but it’s better to have a spare and not need it than need a spare really bad and not have it. Having a couple people trained on the compass makes sense, too, because the two can check each other when making determinations.
You can also get a base plate compass with a Declination adjustment built right in that will help you a lot! The one we use is a Suunto MC2. Ebay and Amazon has them for about $50 or so. We use and teach both at DTG. Redundancy is a goodness thing.
The one advantaged the Suunto has over the USGI Lensatic is that the declination adjustment allows you to measure azimuths on a grid map and skip the conversion process from grid to magnetic and magnetic to grid when performing plots (more on that when you take our Land Nav course). An example of something else you can do is to use a map similar to the one below as a guide. It’s not a road map. It’s the Rand McNally rail road map of Michigan. All those tracks are still out there. Some have been made into “rails to trails” venues, but the track beds are still there and can be used for our purposes. You can parallel these routes while staying off main roads and out of sight and still get to where you’re going. Your object in the next ten weeks is to choose a primary and an alternate route and go for a ride or two to get a mental picture of the area you might have to traverse on foot. While you’re at it, choose some spots you could ‘hole up’ for a night or two that wouldn’t be readily noticed or attractive to others. Make sure they’re concealed and far enough away from the major commercial route (tracks or highways) so that your noise can’t be heard your movement won’t be picked up by casual observance. Mark them down on your map with just a ‘tick’ mark or two. These spots could be your temporary shelter in storms or when you needed to stay still and rest.
Shelter & Field Gear: You’re going to need some things here. And not a tent, either. Tents are not so hot because they blind you to what’s outside, they keep condensation inside them, and they’re not super-fast to take down. From experience in all seasons, to include deep cold winter, I recommend a simple tarp/poncho shelter. There are many types out there from the surplus USMC ‘field tarp’, which is great for one or two people without their packs, or the ‘Noah’s Tarp’ that has all sorts of loops sewn in that can take 3 people with their packs and keep them out of the rain and wind. Again, you get what you pay for, so don’t fall prey to shrewd salesmanship. ‘General Purpose’ is key, and that’s another reason I recommend the tarp system. You’ll need some 550 cord and you’ll have to learn a few knots, like the bowline and the trucker’s hitch, but it’ll be well worth it.
Now that you’ve got something to keep the wind off of you, to stay warm, you need insulation. And, in that light, the best insulation you can get is to make sure you get a “30 below” sleeping bag for each person that will keep you warm in the winter and in summer, you can lay on top of it. You can spend as much as you want on a sleeping bag or sleeping bag system. Just remember “Caveat Emptor” – Buyer Beware! You get what you pay for! A good, well-priced bag is from Wiggy’s. It’s their “Superlight” bag and costs as little as $130 when on sale. You may also want to get a FTRSS overbag for an additional $130 and have a -40 below bag system. Add a poncho liner and poncho for hot summer days or cool fall evenings. This will cost about $45 for a set. So, for about $300 per person, you’ve got all 4 seasons covered, and can stay warm in the coldest places. Wiggy’s bags, by the way, are used exclusively by my instructor staff when participating or teaching survival classes. We’ve learned from experience how good they are. Wiggy’s can be found here: www.wiggys.com You can also get your Wiggy’s bag from http://www.greatlakesurvival.com while you’re getting your water purification equipment.
Well, let’s pause and see how much we’ve committed financially here:
At the most, getting all high-end gear, you’ve committed about $4,000 and at the least, about $2,000 on the low end for a weapon, ammo, water purification and storage, fuel costs, food, shelter, and a very small amount of field gear.
Between $200 and $400 a week for 10 weeks to spend on making sure you survive and thrive. People spend more than that on junk food, cable and beer these days. Learning to take care of yourself and your loved ones is not expensive or difficult – all it takes is discipline. Only you can provide that.
Speaking of “surviving and thriving”, there’s one written source you need to have to read for the 10 week period. It’s called, “Six Ways in and Twelve Ways Out” It’s a compilation of US Ranger knowledge on how to make it in all sorts of scenarios. You can get it for $15 from http://www.usrsog.org/manu.htm post paid. Best book you can get on the subject!
Buy it. Read it. Apply it. You’ll be glad you did. Other field gear you’re going to need is a good knife. A plain old USMC KaBar with a 7 inch blade is about the best you can get for the money. Sure, you can get a good Cold Steel knife or something else that you spend lots of money on, but the problem is if they’re more expensive than the KaBar and don’t have that many advantages over the KaBar for the price, why spend the money, especially with only 10 weeks to prepare? Remember to stick to the basics! KaBar knives can be had all over the internet from between $40 to $50. It will not let you down. Remember this about a large bladed knife: It can do everything a smaller knife can do reasonably well, but a smaller knife can’t do a lot of the things a larger blade can do. Like when you need to hack branches when building shelters, or need to butcher a deer, prepare a meal, etc. The other edged weapon/tool you’re going to want and need is a tomahawk. It’s a great tool to make your life more bearable and a formidable weapon (provided you have taken the time to learn to use it, which can only be done effectively by being taught), both physically and psychologically. You’ll want your hawk to have a hardened hammer and blade which is superb for making cooking tools, stakes, etc. The one I recommend is the Cold Steel “Pipe Hawk” which you can get for less that $50 if you look. It’s light, strong, and takes an edge very well. If you decide you want to add one to your gear, it’s one of those ‘got everything else, so I can get this now’ and if you do, get yours here: http://www.greatlakesurvival.com/survival-tomahawks.html
Other very important field gear and equipment are: Toilet paper (2 rolls per person minimum, 3 for females), a “spork” (spoon/fork hybrid) made out of aluminum (against breakage), a “utility pot” (can be a canteen cup), 4 tooth brushes per person with the handle cut in half (weight/space reduction), parachute cord (at least 200 feet), a fire starting device (BIC type lighter as well as sparking device and the knowledge on how to use it) .
You will also want to consider a FRS/GMRS type walkie-talkie, spare batteries, flash lights (small LED are best), spare batteries and some spare batteries. Get the point? You’re going to need some batteries.
For carrying this gear on your person, you’ll probably want a Load Bearing Vest or harness. You can pick these up cheap on the internet. We prefer the “H” harness and a ‘battle belt’, but each person has their own preferences. Some like vests; others more exotic set ups. Below is similar to what we prefer. Sure, it’s old school, but it’s inexpensive, and it works. Like there’s no tomorrow. Remember, this is to get set up quickly making every dollar count.
As for clothing, make sure it’s not bright and at least doesn’t clash with your surroundings. If you’re going to be moving through or staying in urban areas, you don’t want the latest camouflage pattern; if you’re moving through or staying in a rural area, you definitely want some surplus GI camouflage uniforms (with all insignia removed) or better yet, Coyote Brown or Grey pants and jackets. You can find old woodland BDU uniforms very cheaply at garage sales, on the internet, and so forth.
Make sure you have weather appropriate clothing as well: Cold weather boots, socks, underwear, etc. Frostbite can kill you.
These are most of the items you’d most likely need to survive a scenario from an equipment perspective. But what about the “people” angle? Contrary to what some think, no man is an island and you can’t do it all by yourself.
You need support – a team member, someone to watch your back. Oh sure, some folks have large families and can delegate those tasks, but many, many others, just have themselves or a spouse/significant other. And, usually, that spouse/significant other is not trained nor has the discipline to handle the more arduous, but very mundane tasks required.
So, what do you do then? You get yourself a “buddy”. You can do that in the 10 week time period handily. Start checking out your friends. See which ones seem to be alarmed with what’s going on as you are. Then, find a time to speak with them alone and “test the waters”. If they agree and want to do something, give them a copy of this and get to work.
While getting your equipment and supplies together, draft and develop your plan. Will you:
- Stay put? Doing so in a large urban area most likely means you will be searched, possibly relocated, and should you resist, be in danger from the occupying force. You need to consider getting out of the urban area as soon as possible before bad things occur, rather than after.
- Run for the “hills”? Ok, that’s plausible, but you need to really pay attention to where you might go, because in most states with large population centers, a significant amount of those ‘city people’ may be doing the same thing! By necessity, your rule will be “no contact whatever” with others that you see along your way because you will have no way of knowing who, if anyone, is with them or has them under observation.
- Pack up and move to Grandma’s? Also feasible, provided Grandma has a place that will support the group you’re moving. Think of hygiene requirements, sustenance, and life support (can you or your little group do something to earn silver?)
- Give yourself up? Many will be tempted and eventually succumb, but those who do will be even more miserable than those who stay the course. Remember Thomas Paine, “…these are the times that try men’s souls….but he that stands it deserves the love of both men and women….”
Once you have your buddy and you begin to build trust between you and learn each other’s (both individually and group) likes, dislikes, habits and so forth, you can still find another “buddy team” to partner with. That gives you a group from 8 to 24 or so, depending on family size. The logistical requirements are more complex, but if each handles his own family/team, it’s not so overwhelming. At the same time, you and your buddy(s) need to start studying. If the internet is still up, go to Scribd and download and read this book, “A Failure of Civility”. Go to Amazon.com and get a copy of Dr. Joseph P. Martino’s book, “Resistance to Tyranny”. Start here at our blog and read everything on training, basic skills, and so forth. That ought to keep you busy for the entire 10 weeks, and then, later, if you have the money and things haven’t imploded, get yourself to a good school for face to face training. All of the blogs or sites listed above either offer training or can direct you to a reputable one, depending on your needs. Do your research and focus on schools that are teaching survival skills, not just warfighting.
The next issue is leadership. Teams just won’t work as a committee. All your members will have input, sure, but someone has to make the hard decisions. This may be the most complex issue you need to solve: who will you or your little band trust to make those hard decisions, and will the group follow that person? It’s not about popularity, either. It’s about ability and reason. The best case scenario for you would be to have someone in your group who’s an experienced leader either in business or prior military (not just being in, but being in and being a leader!) which will provide you a foundation of discipline for your chosen leader. The leader has to be secure enough to listen to others, humble enough to know others may have a great idea, selfless enough to put the group before his own needs (everyone always gets fed and watered before the leader), and tough enough to make the decisions that won’t be popular sometimes. Admittedly, a tall order, but it has to be done. Your leadership discussions may cause one or two to fall out of the group. That’s going to happen. If it does, let them leave with their self-respect. Don’t hurt their pride or “throw them out”. That’d be the worst thing you could do! Remember, we’re talking about a whole new paradigm here: Martial Law. If someone leaves and goes away with their pride intact and holds no hard feelings, they won’t be so likely to turn you in to the “new” authorities. They just might, however, if they have a chip on their shoulder or want to “pay you back” for some slight, real or imagined. Be conscious of this group dynamic! Now a word on being a good follower: As your leader builds trust and earns your respect, you are obligated to be a good follower. Don’t get involved in any back-biting, sabotaging, or otherwise dysfunctional group behavior. This is for real, and bullshit adolescent games will only get you killed. Do as you said you would do; do as you’re asked, and always, to the very best of your ability.
Networking follows: If the net is still up, find others close by or in the area you are moving to (if you can) that feel as you do, at least on the face of it. Start a dialog and listen carefully! Be nice! Help them do things. Be a good neighbor. Don’t get involved in chest thumping or penis measuring contests. They should exhibit about the same anxiousness you have in networking. If they’re too open and promise the moon for nothing in return or if they’re so closed they accuse you of being in the “enemy” camp, you don’t want anything to do with them. Look elsewhere. Common sense and values are key here.
Finally, develop your “line in the sand”. This is that one thing that will cause you to execute your plan. An example would be the actual deployment of foreign or UN troops anywhere in the United States. That action is an obvious declaration that the compact of the Unanimous Declaration and the Constitution of the United States has been discarded; once discarded, the Rule of Law is completely dead and buried.
So, as I said earlier, this is a “quick and dirty” discussion on how to plan and what to do in the 10 weeks between now and the middle of May. How it comes out, we’ll all know soon enough, I guess.
Timeline wise, here’s an outline that may help:
Week 1: Inventory, evaluate and prioritize equipment needs; evaluate available funds; begin fitness program.
Week 2: Incorporate weapon familiarity training into schedule; gather fiscal resources and begin purchases.
Week 3: Dry fire; look for “buddy”; evaluate friends on like-minded concerns; begin to educate your family/spouse/significant other.
Week 4: Help “buddy” start preparations; continue equipment gathering. Begin training immediate family members.
Week 5: Determine “GOOD” location (if any), map route, and do initial route familiarization trip. Modify route as actual conditions warrant.
Week 6: Determine “line in the sand”; if you can, zero your rifle and get range time. If not, continue practice with dry fire.
Week 7: Look for like-minded people in GOOD location and at home. Network.
Week 8: Pack newly gathered equipment into GOOD kits and locate near transport.
Week 9: Continue preparations; family/network education & planning.
Week 10: Dress rehearsal; clean weapons, check equipment, food, etc. Continue to increase fitness level, refine preparations, seek more training.
By the time you’re through the 10 week plan, the general election will have occurred, and you’ll be able to use the ensuing time between now and January, when the new president is sworn in, to further your preps and training.
Lastly, remember, you’re adapting a new way of life here. Not some sort of paranoiac, delusional “everyone’s out to get me” mindset, but one of careful evaluation of what is and what can occur, and a solemn determination to keep freedom alive. Because this is just the beginning-once all the people in the country doing this get their “sea legs”, the long journey undertaken to reclaim our freedoms and reign in a government removed from the Constitution has just begun.
It might be time to break open that little nest egg and BLOAT!! Just hope it’s not too late!
Buy it cheap (never been cheaper than it is now) and stack it deep! Don’t sweat buying on line, either – you’re already on a list if you’ve ever bought with a credit card or check. Just. Get. The. Ammo! For both rifle AND pistol/revolver!!
Here’s a good place to start: www.ammoseek.com
And, don’t forget the other expendable resource for your chosen defensive platforms: Magazines. Basic rule of thumb: Half the money paid for a platform (rifle OR pistol) should be spent on magazines, ie, you paid a grand for your rifle, you buy $500 in magazines. Remember, they’re an expendable item!! Right now you can get 10 aluminum 30 round mags at Palmetto State Armory for $90 with free shipping! Can’t beat that with a stick! Hurry, expires sometime tommorow!
Updated at AP on 21 Sep 18.
On this installment, we’ll look at what would be Level III, or the ‘Existence Load.’ Please note that brands are not what is being recommended here (everyone seems to have their own favorites); only the category/type of item. For purposes of this post, a pistol is a pistol, a fixed blade knife is a fixed blade knife, etc. Most importantly, your mileage may vary on what you need as Level 1 in your own AO. Remember to not over do on item selection for any of the levels. You have to carry it all….that said, this is what we recommend for baseline gear/equipment leveling:
Level 1 Contents in no particular order (and some are not included in the pictures):
- Presume you have AO/Season appropriate clothing on your person, so we won’t go into that.
- Cotton Balls or some other very light fire starter
- Signalling Whistle
- Stabilized Oxygen (water purification)
- AO Map – Usually a state map showing major roads, cities, etc, (this would be in addition to any topographical or aerial photograph maps you have in your level 2 or 3 list.
- Water proof bag to keep small L1 items together (should fit in a cargo or pants pocket)
- ‘Space’ Blanket’
- Magnesium or Ferro Rod fire starter (I prefer the ferro rod; others like the magnesium – I keep my ferro rod on a piece of 550 cord around my neck…works for me.)
- 12 inches of 100 mph tape
- 1 unlubricated prophylactic – relax – it’s an emergency water container
- Fixed blade knife of 6 to 8 inches
- Small sharpening stone – in the picture below, that is kept in the snow sealed, riveted sheath
- Compass – As seen, this one is in the knife cap
- Small, individual survival kit – in the knife handle; can include a few fish hooks, a few matches, etc.
- Side arm & one magazine
- Holster – in this case, the owner is using a simple trigger guard with belt attachment for IWB carry. I prefer either a belt or should holster. In any event, the pistol is on your person 24/7, even when you’re sleeping – never out of reach, always ready in an instant.
- Small bag with a couple packets of MRE toilet paper and a couple disinfectant wipes (even in dire straights, keeping yourself clean as possible will keep you going longer as your body won’t have to fight an illness while using its energy reserves you’re counting on).
- A high quality multi-tool in a pouch on your knife sheath or belt or in a pocket. This is just as important as your fixed blade knife and pistol. This item, really, depending on what’s chosen, one of those things you’ll find you really need. DTG actually carries two; one affixed to the knife sheath and one in my accessory pouch. One is a Leatherman MUT, and the other a Gerber 600 one hand opening needle nose. In. De. Spensible.
- One quart size plastic bag to keep things in (can also double as another water container).
- Other items can be easily added, such as
- 10X monocular, kept in a shirt pocket
- Lighter (highly recommended)
- Wrist Watch – On your wrist, obviously, and one might consider a self-winder or manual wind (EMP, you know).
As you can see from the second picture below, it all goes very nicely in the dry bag, and its scale/weight will do very nicely in a cargo or even a large shirt pocket. Knife goes on the belt, and the pistol goes into an appendix carry in this case. If you use a belt holster for your pistol, make sure to balance your belt with the pistol on one side and the knife on the other.
Level 2 Contents in no particular order:
- Carbine & primary magazine – the carbine should be set up as a practical combat carbine w/optics and possibly a weapon mounted light, depending on product. Remember, a ‘negligent light up’ in the dark could get you killed.
- H-Harness or LBV – Remember DTG does not recommend chest rigs as ‘general purpose’ gear. They’re great for specific applications, but, at least in our opinion, don’t fit the definition used for selection as general purpose. As always, your mileage may vary.
- Ammo pouches to hold six standard capacity (30 rounds) magazines with appropriate ammunition.
- Compass pouch w/primary compass.
- Accessory pouch with those accessories a NPT member might need for security operations. Could contain things like: Headlamp, earplugs, 3 or 4 inch blade folding knife (for small chores like opening food packets), eating utensil, spare batteries, small bottle of CLP, 4 way spigot key (can turn on a lot of faucets if needed in an urban/suburban environment, etc. Your call, as it’s what you believe you’ll need and will be on your harness/LBE.
- CAT (Combat Application Tourniquet) – DTG carries an additional one taped to the outboard side of the carbine stock in order to have two; one of which is immediately available, DO NOT use 100 mph tape!! You’ll never get your CAT off the rifle in time to use it. 1.5 wraps of electrical tape on each end of the CAT will do it.
- BOK – AKA, ‘Blow Out Kit’ or Traumatic Hemorrhage Kit complete with coagulants, chest seals, etc. It all depends on what kind of care you think you can get post use of the BOK.
- Mini-IFAK – Includes band aids, triangular bandages, snake bit kits, etc, again, depending on your AO (if you’re narrow waisted, and don’t have a lot of ‘real estate’ on your LBE, you might consider a cargo pocket or a shirt/jacket pocket. In cooler weather, a British Windproof Smock or similar jacket with many pockets would help on this. DTG uses a smock for L1 add ons and L2 items that won’t fit on the LBE, and it works – make sure you test what you come up with).
- Radio – Make sure you check out Brushbeater’s radio series if you’re not quite sure what you should have or how you’d use what you do have.
Level 3 Contents:
These are what old-schooler’s refer to as ‘Existence Load’ items. Again, in no particular order:
- Entrenching tool
- 6 additional loaded standard capacity magazines in bandoleer
- Water bladder (additional or primary – depends on what you can carry)
- Lean to (tarp, poncho, etc) – The USMC field tarp, British Basha, Aqua Quest Defender, Noah’s Tarp, etc, seem to be very popular and work well. DTG has used all the listed examples.
- Sleeping bag/poncho liner & additional tarp (depending on season/AO)
- 30 ft 1/2 inch rope
- 3 Duke 110 traps
- 3 ‘Yo Yo’ reels
- Naglene water container
- Utility pot (canteen cup – DTG prefers the WWII/Korea models with the solid handle vice the ‘butterfly grips’)
- 1 spare set of pants/shirt
- 3 spare sets of socks
- 1 pair thermal underwear
- Spare batteries
- Spare compass
- Four 50 ft hanks of 550 cord
- Tinder packet
- Sharpening stone
- 3 day pack
- “MAC” sacks (one way valve waterproofing bags)
- Kukri or Machete (not pictured) – personally, DTG likes the Kukri – it can take a LOT of use/abuse for survival situations
- Equipment Repair Kit – Heavy Material Stitcher, Goo, 100mph tape, or whatever you think you’ll use to repair gear that becomes damaged in the field
- 6 full meals (that doesn’t mean MRE’s, either, unless you ‘field strip’ them. DTG does a mix of Mountain House vacuum packed, field stripped MRE’s, and other small items that equate to 4 days of meals.
Add what you need, but the trick here is to have what you really need in the Existence Load, but not over pack, and BE ABLE TO CARRY FOR AT LEAST 5 MILES what you have without falling over, and then still being able to set up a RON (Remain Over Night) location when you get to your way point.
And there you have it. The image below shows a NPT member with all Levels mounted. Again, these photos are for demonstration, and therefore, no field clothing is being used by the model.
We’ve all got our SHTF set ups and they most likely include, our harness, our multitude of ammo and mags, and the kitchen sink. And, if we’ve done it right, we’ve bought the highest quality we can afford, meaning it might not be ‘Top Shelf’ equipment, but it’s not going to fall apart with rough use, either.
One thing that many don’t have is an “instant Response Kit” that might entail basic NPT* member requirements for, say, 24 to 48 hours in the event of an imminent threat or actual attack. In essence, a ‘grab and go’ set up that will see you through the initial stages of a ‘bad thing’ until you can either get your standard SHTF existence load and equipment. Necessarily so, this equipment won’t be at the top line of expenditures, either, and surplus equipment might be the way to go.
So, for discussion, what might that look like?
Again, this set up should be of reasonable quality to be used in scenario based training and the real McCoy if necessary, but would only have an expected life that would be much more protracted than the really good stuff you’ve made your ‘SHTF I’m not coming back’ set up from.
This example is for an AR set up because it’s ubiquitous, and these days, really inexpensive to get a decent copy. So….you 7.62NATO fans are going to have to find something similar that takes your mags and spare ammo, if you decide to go with the concept.
Now nothing says your ‘instant response’ or “IR” set up can’t actually BE your SHTF set up, so long as it meets the criteria. If you’ve got your current SHTF set up in modules, where you can easily pick up something and leave some other thing behind instantly, than you may be good to go. That means what you might consider ‘Line 1’ items must be contained in the set up. Pistol, spare mags, knife, mini-survival kit have to be on it, unless you actually have them already in your pants/on your person when you grab the IR kit.
Remember, the definition I’m going to use here for an ‘IR Kit’ means exactly that: INSTANT RESPONSE. No sorting, no digging through stuff, no anything save grabbing your AR and your IR Kit and going out the door.
The IR Kit is comprised of 2 modules that include anything determined to be necessary to operate independently of a support base/group for up to 72 hours maximum that when donned, needs nothing added to complete the set up.
Module 1: Zero’d AR with one full magazine – it should be painted to break up the shape and outline, with a pallet of colors that match most conditions of your area.
Module 2: IR Kit consisting of the following components:
- Harness: Suggested is the USGI Gen II LBV. Why a surplus USGI 2nd Gen? Because A: it’s cheap. Mine cost me $13 shipped. B: Because it is versatile enough to haul your required gear/weapons/support with the addition of a USGI web belt that’s also ‘soooper cheep,’ and C: because it’ll hold 8 mags or 6 mags if you use one pouch for ‘stuff’ (jury’s out on that right now due to balance – time will tell). To keep costs down, I’m also using spares I’ve got on hand so the dollar outlay is as little as possible. For those of you who might not have spares, remember your local garage sales and flea markets. New isn’t what you’re after – ‘serviceable’ is what you need. In fact, a bit faded is good. So, look for the belts and, while you’re at it, if you don’t have one, get a USGI M84 or M12 Holster to go on your belt for your service pistol. These holsters really protect your service pistol from a lot of things, including mud, debris, and other items that can impact your successful employment of the pistol when necessary.
- Fixed blade knife: One suggestion if you don’t have a spare to throw on your IR Kit, is a Camillus ‘combat’ knife or similar. Used is also good here, so long as the edge looks serviceable, and the sheath is ok, too. You can always improve the edge as well as sno-seal or beeswax the sheath, You could also get a ‘Glock Field Knife’ or other similar knife that meets your preferences. The important thing is to have a good fixed blade knife.
- Spare Magazines: Determine whether you want 6 or 8 on your person and pre-load them to be stored in the harness. Not to worry, you can leave mags loaded for years without damaging the magazine spring, contrary to conventional wisdom – metallurgy will tell you that over compression of the spring is what damages mags, not leaving fully loaded for years. Personally, I like 6 on the vest, because with one mag in the AR, you’ve got a total of 210 rounds which is a basic load taken right from my super old school training. Unless you’re dealing with a human wave style attack, 210 rounds ought to be good to go for 48 hours, especially if you’re an, ‘aimed, deliberate, accurate, deadly fire’ proponent. If there’s a chance you might not get back to your primary SHTF equipment for a couple more days, you can always load 6 more magazines (180 rounds) in a bandoleer to provide an added measure of ‘peace of mind.’ The USGI surplus is better than the aftermarket hook and loop closure models – the USGI version has hardcore snaps on it.
- Support Items: Then we need to add to the mix some sundry items like water, food, map, compass (even if you’re only going to the end of your block, you should ALWAYS have a map & compass to plot out where the bad guys are or have come from), space blanket, fire kit, canteen cup (universal use pot), fire starter, These might be kept in a small ruck, an accessory pouch, or an old school ‘butt pack.’ A cleaning kit is purposely not included, as you would not necessarily be a position to take down your piece/pistol for cleaning.
The primary objective is to have the harness set up so that everything you need to ‘go now’ for anything extremely short term up to a 48 hour stint away from your primary existence and fighting load is at your fingertips. This could also serve as a superb ‘mobile’ set up that one might put in his/her vehicle prior to going on a long trip. 2 items: Rifle & IR Kit. Not bad.
Once I get mine together, I’ll be doing some experimenting on wearing it and see how the basic idea seems to fit.
Updated at AP on 21 July 18.
What is gear layering? As described in other posts here and on other sites, such as Mason Dixon Tactical, American Partisan, and WRSA, gear layering is arranging equipment in lines, layers, and levels, to achieve the same thing. It is a technique for prioritizing the carriage of the most essential gear for the specific job over gear that may still be important, but not as high on the priority list as other items. Many sources divided their levels of gear into 3 or 4 layers. DTG recommends and uses the 3 layer approach. Why address it again? Because it works!
A quick description:
Level 1: Gear that is essential to survival and ALWAYS on your person, even when you’re sleeping (remember, you will fight like you train, and if a SHTF situation presents itself, you no longer have the luxury of ‘total comfort’.) If all else fails and an individual loses their harness and ruck, they still will have their level one items with them to help them survive until they can reach support.
Level 2: Gear is for NPT security tasks and is on your person the significant majority of the time. Only items that are needed for conducting continuing security tasks are carried on this level with respect to the SMOLES packing concept. Following this methodology, the NPT member stays light and has the freedom of movement essential to do their job.
Level 3: Gear is comprised of sustainment items, which serves as one’s “home away from home.” Usually, this is a “patrol pack”, ruck or combination of both. Items at this level are needed for task completion while on a job, or for long term survivability in the field. If in contact with a threat, more than likely this level is shed so that the NPT member can maneuver more easily to counteract the threat. So, there is a possibility that items in this layer may be lost in contact. On the other hand, if the NPT is successful in its task, the NPT members can always retrieve their Level 3 gear.
Here are a few visual examples of gear that layered for an NPT member:
Example Level 1: Here you can see a NPT member wearing a big knife, a pistol, (and the bulge in the pocket is a survival kit). He’s always got these on.
Example Level 2: Here you can see a NPT team member’s Load Bearing Harness. It contains all the necessary items to conduct security tasks in a SHTF/WROL situation. The harness weighs about 25 pounds complete with all equipment.
Example Level 3: Option 1: As you can see here, the level 3 gear is a “patrol pack” or small ruck, dedicated to sustainment items for a short trip in the field. The pack weighs about 22 lbs loaded with the items we recommend for general purpose carry.
Example Level 3 – Option 2: And lastly we have a large ruck in combination with the small ruck as the full load out for one’s home away from home in the field. Together they weigh about 65 lbs.
So there you have it, an overview for gear layering. It’s not a complicated concept, but it does help one prioritize their gear for the purpose it was intended. The layer concept also makes sure you have your “oh crap” tools always on hand.
In the next post we will take a look at general NPT security member kit contents in each layer.
Originally posted on 1 June 2016.
Bottom line first: As the title indicates, DTG is no fan of tents for survivalist or mobile NPT scenarios that may require sheltering from weather. Look at the graphic above: Do you think the occupants saw/heard this guest coming into their camp? Of course, the photo indicates this was a ‘simple’ camping trip, and other factors are sure to be present that drew the uninvited guest in to check things out, but the main point is the apparent haste in which the occupants left the tent….and all their belongings because they were blind to their environment.
Another reason we don’t recommend any tent, to include individual ‘bivy’ shelters are due to the logistics involved: Shelter is hauled on your back. Any shelter that has rigid support structure (poles or springs, such as ‘instant’ pop-up shelters/tents) tend to make the load being carried unbalanced (more or less), and once set up, blocks vision, restricts movement, or retains moisture from condensation, or all of the foregoing. Don’t agree? Try your small signature tactical tent in deep winter, and when you settle in for the night, turn on a flashlight and watch your breath rise to the ceiling, freeze, and begin to drift down as micro-snow. You may find in the morning that your sleeping cap is covered with a thin layer of “snow”, as well as the top of your bag. This is not speculation – yours truly has had this happen.
Additionally, this post is not about hiding one’s IR signature, either. Different subject; different tools; different employment of the tools available for an entirely different purpose. I’m sure you can find plenty of other sites available that will provide more than enough justification necessary to validate the purchase of their $200 tarp with a reflective liner. Most likely with various camouflage patterns to meet your specific needs. If that’s what you’re after, this is not the post for you.
This post is also not about sheltering when you know or have reason to believe you’re being actively hunted. Another entirely different subject where different tools and methods are employed for an entirely different purpose. The frame of reference here is simply sheltering in the elements to (in no particular order) rest, dry out, eat, hydrate, perform hygiene, etc.
The focus will simply be:
- Tarp Shelter Purpose
- Optimum Size & Weight
- Shelter Siting
- Knots to use
- Setting it Up
- And whatever else crosses our minds on the subject.
Tarp Shelter purpose: Simply put, a shelter is to get you out of the sun/wind and rain/snow. As most know, that’s where the debilitation of your physical condition occurs is in the elements. You can stay cooler or warmer, dehydrate less, and become much more comfortable if you have a tarp shelter big enough to get you out of the elements. Here’s what you need:
Tarp Shelter, 550 cord, basic knot knoweldge (trucker’s hitch, figure 8, and Prusik will do nicely), your field knife or tomahawk (to make stakes), bungee cords (if you’re going 1st class), and wind consciousness.
Optimum Size & Weight: Again, bottom line: Ideally, no more than 3 pounds and size should be 7 X 8 feet, and completely waterproof. It has to be large enough, ideally, to shelter you, your personal defense carbine, and your ruck. If your ruck is guaranteed to be waterproof, you can leave it out if needs be, but if not, you don’t want to carry the extra weight from the material becoming saturated. If you’re alone, or each in your group has their own, you can use your poncho if you have one. Below is a picture of a student shelter with a standard issue Woodland pattern poncho. Note the mandatory ‘goose neck’ to keep out water. And yes, the ruck, hawk and carbine belongs to the student, who wanted to show them in the photo.
As to size, there are a group of newer shelters, such as the Aqua Quest Defender (shown below) that are about 10X7 feet, and have all sorts of great innovations like up to 20 loops around the perimeter and even one or more loops on the center spine. They are a bit spendy, but you get what you pay for. This one weighs in at just over 2 pounds, but has the tried and true woodland pattern. So far, I really like mine – it works very very well!Another great one, if you’re traveling in a team of two or three at most, and distribute the shelter building load among yourselves, is any 10X10 ft waterproof tarp, such as the Snugpak All Weather Shelter, as sold here by Great Lake Survival and weighs about 2 pounds. I’ve got one and used it regularly until it was edged out by the Aqua Quest. So much so that each time I hit the bush on a training run, it was ‘home.’ Very nice, and when not with a partner, it’s like having a mansion. I can make my fire right at the edge without endangering the tarp so long as I keep the fire at a reasonable level to heat my food or water for coffee. The image below is only one configuration possible.
If you like MARPAT, and you shop around, you can get almost new USMC Field Tarps, with Coyote Brown on one side and MARPAT on the other. It’s bigger than a poncho, has no hood, and is solid. It’s a bit heavier at about 3 pounds, but some folks swear by it. I have one of these as well, and have used it with no complaints, other than the additional weight. Here’s one set up in the ubiquitous ‘shelter half’ configuration.
One feature you want to look for, especially if you’re going to get an individual sized tarp, is the ability to snap them together (did we mention that your team needs to have standardized equipment? Here’s one more reason why) in order to make a larger shelter when appropriate. It’s a nice capability to have available, but not essential for efficient sheltering.
Next time: Shelter Siting, cordage, and knots that lend themselves to efficient set up and tear down.
Posted on AP 9 Jan 19.
This will be an out of the box first impressions review and comparison with my tried and true Northern Lites Tundra. I’ll do a follow up post once I get enough snow to do some field trials. Fortunately, I have a friendly golf course nearby that allows snowshoeing once the snow gets above 6 inches, so that’ll be great!
For the last 6 years, I’ve had a pair of Northern Lites Tundra trail shoes that I’ve used for hauling sleds & equipment through deep snow in the North country. They cost about $250, and are worth every penny! They are THE lightest shoe on the market (3 pounds per pair) compared for size and deck surface area (9.5 inches X 32 inches = 258 Sq Inches of displacement) and are rated for loads that can exceed 250 lbs. Think of how your weight can go up if you are, say 175 pounds, add winter clothing, add LBE, add whatever long gun you choose, ammo, mags, and so on. 250 pounds is not hard to achieve (personally, I like the fact that they keep virtually any load floating on the surface of the snow). This will keep you, your pack (if you carry one), your carbine, and anything else floating in any snow condition you can think of. Really, these shoes float better than any shoe I’ve ever tried with or without carrying a load, the bindings are easy on/easy off, are durable, and do not get phased by quick changes from extreme barely cold to back again. The decking is especially noteworthy, in that it’s made from the material that White Water Rafts are made from, and will not tear. I painted mine using a pattern similar to the original ASAT (All Season All Terrain) to blend in with the winter landscape, especially when I was in camp and stuck them into a snow bank near my shelter. As you can see, the paint will wear off the bottom, but the top stays nice and camouflaged wherever the boots don’t rub it off. This Spring will see them getting touched up.
Here’s a pic of my Tundras as they are now:
Here’s their site for you to review some of the advantages if you’d like.
The one weakness they have is that once you get into deep woods that a lot of trees close together along with semi-deep snow, they’re too long (almost a yard – 32 inches) to maneuver well, and you may have to take them off, strap them on your back, and break trail. So, I’ve been looking for something I can use in the woods that’s light, can easily be stowed in my sled, are maneuverable, and usable on the trail if necessary, and so on. Basically, the best of all worlds.
I’ve been researching various brands/types/kinds of shoes by various manufacturers, and I’ve settled on what I think will be they answer. They’re made by Mountain Safety Research, aka ‘MSR.’ Specifically, it’s their USGI MSR Denali snow shoes with the 8 inch trail extensions. They could be called a ‘convertible’ in that when you take the tails off, they’re only 22 inches long, and are just right fore tight maneuvering forest or brush. They usually run about $250 – $280 from known retailers, but I found a pair for less than $135, new! That’s about the best deal I’ve found and am like many folks refusing suggested retail on anything, including snowshoes. So, I snapped them up.
These are slightly less robust, in that they handle “up to” 250 lbs with the 8 inch tails attached. They’re also narrower by an inch and a half (8 inchs v 9.5 inches) and two inches shorter (30 inches – w/tails v 32 inches). They’re also a tad heavier by 5 ounces per shoe without the tails. I’m willing to take the trade off for the 22 inch capability in the woods coupled with the 30 inch trail capability. We’ll see how this works out once I get some decent snow on the ground.
Here’s the out of the box pic of the MSR shoes:
The tails can be attached with little effort and secure nicely with the retaining screw. Nice and snug is the way to go; you don’t have to use a lot of force. The bindings are virtually identical to the Northern Lites, and I found through use they’re very, very easy to snug up when putting your shoes on.
The pictures immediately above and below this text show the aggressive cleating on the shoes for walking on icy terrain, climbing or traversing slopes. Not a bad thing to have!
Beyond good snowshoes, something else to ensure you have is a good set of trekking poles whether you’re carrying a pack or pulling a sled. The picture above of my Northern Lites shows how I covered mine with burlap because I didn’t have time to paint them when I first purchased them, and since then, the burlap worked out well. However, I plan on painting them in the same pattern I put on my Tundra’s when it gets warm again (on the April through June project list). So, if you don’t have any, make sure you get a pair. They are indispensable in keeping your balance and assisting you when going through snow. The newer models are also extremely light, so when you get into very shallow or no snow, they can be easily tied to your ruck without adding significant weight. The picture below demonstrates even in 18 inches of snow poles can help you even when you’re not breaking trail. Yours truly was 3rd in line and was using the Northern Lites.
An aside on winter camouflage: Too many people take a smock, poncho, or plain sheet and drape it over the top half of their body with dark patterns on their pants. Doing so actually works against the person trying to move through snow country as the patterns are reversed. Dark pants against white snow and white jacket covers against dark trees. Try doing just the opposite: Wear your white, grey, or very light tan snow camouflage from the waist down and the darker colors from the waist up when moving if one wishes to blend into the surrounding terrain. Look at the lead man in the line: All dark and he stands out. Number 2, 3 & 4 all have their light camouflage over their pants and the darker colors on top. Simply more effective.
What’s your favorite shoe and set up?
EDIT: The following is not to be construed as to how much ammo you should own, but rather, what is carried on your person. Our recommended absolute (that means if there’s just no possible way to get more, which there is as ammo is WAY more affordable now) minimum is to have 1,000 rounds per rifle and 500 rounds per pistol owned in reserve, which does not count that which you use to keep your skills honed, which should be about 750 to 1,000 rounds per year with your rifle, and 500 to 750 rounds per year on your pistol.
A good question posed that has numerous answers based on the conditions you may find yourself faced with.
Here’s a few basic questions to help you find out what’s right for you:
- Are you sheltering in place (SIP)?
- If so, would you be defending your home (and helping defend others) and staying in close proximity?
- Are you part of a Neighborhood Protection Team that might be posted to protect an area perimeter?
- Are you planning to GOOD on foot or in a vehicle?
- Important, because your equipment will most likely be set up differently for each scenario.
- What physical shape are you in?
- Have you practiced long walks with a full pack (ruck) and your LBE?
- Do you have a regular PT plan that you maintain?
- Do you ensure you don’t eat much (if any) processed food?
- Do you have a cache (or several) with a resupply en route to your hidey hole/retreat location?
The amount of ammo you should carry on your LBE/person depends entirely on the answers to these and other questions to get to the amount that would most likely work, but there are some general parameters you can use to start your evaluation. Doesn’t matter what caliber; a lot of people have the AK platform and the 7.62×39 or 7.62X54. For brevity, I’m keeping the scope of this Op-Ed to the 7.62NATO and 5.56NATO. Adapt from there to whatever caliber is your choice.
First, the platform you have is going to have a direct impact on how much ammo you can physically carry when balanced against your fitness level. Here and on other training blogs, the cry of, “MORE PT!!” is echoed regularly by bloggers and students after attending classes and learning first hand that being in shape is the foundation of being able to do what you need to do. So, take that in and let it burn in, real good. Get into the best shape you can get. Digression complete.
Back to the platform. 7.62NATO weighs a lot when you start putting loaded 20 round mags on your LBE (kit). The most I’ve carried is 13 (12 on the LBE; 1 in the rifle), and that was not typical. That’s 260 rounds. In the ruck I had another 200 rounds in bandoleers and another 4 mags on the outside of the ruck in pouches. 540 rounds of 7.62NATO is extremely heavy. So, back to PT if you’re chosen caliber is 7.62NATO. Long, long walks with a full ruck, LBE, and a rifle to get used to it is your requirement. As you go, move to inclines, rough ground, and so forth, because that’s what you’re going to be dealing with once you get out of populated areas. I carried the M-14 type rifle (civilian) doing training, walks in the hills, and on shooting excursions at local ranges for about 20 years before I realized I was getting to the age that I might want a lighter rifle and ammo so I could carry more during a SHTF situation, because truly, if S does HTF, you’ll be carrying all the ammo you need for the rest of your life….or so I’ve heard.
A realistic load (at least for me and my situation) was to go down to six 20 round mags on the LBE, one in the rifle, and still keep 200 rounds in bandoleers (complete with mag charging spoons pinned to each bandoleer) in waterproof bags in the ruck where I could get to them easily. 340 rounds was a lot more manageable to me with that platform. I still conditioned with ruck walks of up to 10 miles with the pack weighing anywhere from 35 to 80 pounds, depending on the training day/cycle. It helped, and still does. (Notice a pattern here on PT and fitness level?)
5.56NATO allows you to carry a lot more in the way of ammunition, and from reports from people who spent a lot of time in the last 10 years in Afghanistan shooting people, it does a really good job. Not quite as good as the 7.62NATO, but everything’s a trade off. With the 5.56NATO, shot placement is KING, which means you have to actually SHOOT WITH YOUR GEAR ON (I know, I’m digressing a lot) REGULARLY when training! Right now, I carry eight 30 round mags on my LBE, one in the rifle, and another six in my 3 day pack or ruck (along with 210 rounds in a bandoleer inside if my personal DEFCON is elevated). So, that’s a total between 420 and 630 rounds, situation dependent, and they noticeably weigh less than my full load of 7.62NATO when I carried it. Some guys like to carry 13 mags (390 rounds) between their LBE and rifle, and another 360 rounds in their rucks either in mags or in bandoleers. That’s 750 rounds! They are much younger and in much better shape than I am. I am working on the PT. Can’t do anything about the wear and tear of years lived, though. So, I carry less than they do. Plus, should things go South, I’m figuring I won’t be doing much ‘snoopin’ and poopin’; that’ll be for the younger guys.
Here’s the bottom line for how much you should carry: You have to figure out what works for you and balance it against the threat you’re planning for, your physical capabilities, your GOOD planning, projected daily activities, how fast and how far you think you’ll have to move, what resupply may be available along your route or at your future location. That’s why your pack list will continuously change to one degree or another as you learn and try to improve what you carry in the way of ammo and equipment in terms of Return On Investment for effort expended and the capability of the item in question to help keep you alive. If you were to reduce everything to a simple equation, it would be this: Ammo, water, food, essential survival gear/equipment, all else.
The one factor you can influence that will have the most bearing on how much you carry? Your fitness level. Do more PT!!