Let me start out by echoing the previous post: This knife is worth every penny . . . and I’ve owned (and sold) a few. It’s no secret that I’m a fan of Randall, Bark River, Blackjack and a few other knives. And now add to that list Wall Handmade Knives. I’ve already put some wear marks on the blade. Like all my knives the first thing I do is put my own personal edge on with a stone (unless it’s a convex edge). I do this because everyone has just a little different touch when free hand sharpening. Later when I sharpen my blade after a day of work, it will take much less time than it did for me to put my original edge on the knife. I will note however this knife was very sharp in its original packaging from Mr. Wall, no complaints there. The whole re-sharpening thing is a personal quirk of mine.
Here’s the kit I chose for the compartment in the last half of the handle: 1 – 2gram Celox Hemostatic Powder, 1 – length of brown electrical tape (securing improvised bandage over a wound, or whatever), 1 – Flint Rod (use a portion of the knife blade you don’t care about to do scraping if necessary – the backside of the knife doesn’t work too well unless there is jimping present), 1 – cotton ball (as tinder), 1 – antibacterial ointment (as wound infection preventative or accelerant for cotton tinder ball – (it works, I’ve used it)), 1 – extra button compass (2 is 1 and 1 is none, and there was a perfect space for it), 1 – length of OD paracord (with inner and outer strands of cordage).
*If one so desired there is enough room to put a couple hooks, and wrap the handle in fishing line before finally wrapping it with paracord.
Sharpness: Our rule of thumb for having a knife sharp enough to go to the ‘field’ is for it to be able to shave a patch of arm or leg hair. (If you are not completely certain that you can do that with your knife without needing medical attention afterward – don’t do it – seriously). Oh boy – I can hear it now . . . “but I just saw the AI cut himself pretty good a couple weekends ago . . . ” Yeah? Well, I performed my own medical attention, so there 🙂
As you can see from my “selfie” below (did I spell that correctly?), my knife is ready to go to the field.
In all seriousness though, even with a coarse stone, you can get a knife ALMOST shaving sharp if the angle of the bevel is correct. A standard bevel edge centerline is about 23 degrees to the stone when sharpening (most kitchen knives not meant for hard use are somewhere around 20 degrees). Using a Medium, Fine and Extra Fine stone, followed with a couple passes on a leather strop will make sure it’s “hair popping sharp” and ready for any task at hand.
You can also test your knife with an actual sharpness tester sold in most knife stores. A less fancy way of testing the sharpness of a knife is to try and shave pencil line thickness pieces of paper with the blade. You will be able to see from paper cuts the part of the blade needs a little work and what part of the blade is “getting there”. As you can see from the picture below (with reference to the width of the paracord), the knife is pretty sharp.
I think we have a winner . . .