They oughta be careful of what they wish for…..they could end up gettin’ their feelin’s hurt. Just sayin…..
Key Graf: “Most are familiar with the right to be armed, while wholly unfamiliar with the duty assigned to that right. The preservation of such right is predicated upon first being armed then proficiency at arms, followed by the assurance of violence should any other right be taken. Your duties accompanying the right of being armed is the capacity for all three of those qualifiers. And that violence must be both quick and decisive; violence has no other legitimate purpose aside from the preservation of one’s liberty.”
If you’re familiar with some of the basic ideas of Libertarianism chances are high you’ll at least recognize something called the non-aggression principle. It seems simple at face value. Don’t go looking for a fight. Pressing a little deeper into the philosophy some claim it means committing no action which would harm others. In that regard aggression is confused with violence. Were it the same, it would create an internal contradiction; for many libertarians one of the core liberties is the right to be armed. If we’re armed, there’s an implication of threat, a promise of violence, based on certain conditions. In totality it would seem that this violates the precept of the NAP altogether. I argue that its viewed the wrong way- that violence and aggression are mutually exclusive concepts. In an era where aggression is openly being used as the mask on civilian disarmament has been removed, its important to understand the difference.
We have to define interpersonal violence as the intentional use of physical force against another person. Violence is not a random act. We must form an intent and a recognition that in that moment, such force is justified. Recognizing this definition, being armed becomes an implicit, and in some ways explicit, promise of violence.
I am armed, with the explicit implication of violence should you take any action of unjustified aggression against me.
Most are familiar with the right to be armed, while wholly unfamiliar with the duty assigned to that right. The preservation of such right is predicated upon first being armed then proficiency at arms, followed by the assurance of violence should any other right be taken. Your duties accompanying the right of being armed is the capacity for all three of those qualifiers. And that violence must be both quick and decisive; violence has no other legitimate purpose aside from the preservation of one’s liberty.
Aggression is separate concept wholly independent from violence. While aggression usually accompanies violence, in most contexts aggression is a posture and almost always precedes a violent act. It is a reaction. Aggression can be understood as weakness feigning strength. The raising of one’s voice, the beratement of the other, the unnecessary posing with one’s weapons for no purpose other than vanity; these are forms of aggression which precede violence. Each are forms of posturing. Posturing is much akin to a growling dog. The truly menacing dog won’t growl, he’ll just bite. He needs no confirmation of his own power, nor does he need any other justification than his prey is infringing on his territory. The small dog on the other hand will growl and snarl in an attempt to intimidate, inherently ceding their inferiority. Violence is thus natural when threatened, and among the prepared, aggression is unneeded.
So to say that one is armed nonviolent is an absurdity. The fact that I am armed implicates violence. It is a promise of violence, both quick and decisive in its nature. There should be no posturing, no prostrating with one’s weapons of an unnecessary goal. Rather, the presence of weapons and thus violence must serve an end. For me at least, that end is both a recognition of my rights through assured duties as well as training others to do the same. To build those skills and to foster that confidence in others. Violence is both necessary and a natural force; aggression is not. I am both armed and violent, trained to be violent, and train others in exercising that collective violence. That violence is quick and decisive, ending the fight as rapidly as it began.
Collective Violence. Individually, interpersonal violence exists as a resolution. However what of the concept of violence when extended to whole categories of people? When I am told “Hell Yes we are going to take your AR-15!” I consider this aggression with an implication of violence. Robert Francis O’Rourke, a product of a life of great privilege, acts through aggression. The man couldn’t disarm a child much less a trained adult, but he’ll send someone else to- make no mistake of that fact. But what serves as a deterrent to such aggression? Violence as a collective.
So with those two concepts better defined, can violence exist within the parameters of libertarianism? Absolutely. I argue that the core concept of one’s liberty is preserved through the promise of violence, that the proficiency and skill at such violence in all forms is a vital one. Aggression being an independent concept from violence, it is wholly possible to be non aggressive while being entirely violent. The difference is that violence must serve an end goal while being entirely justified. Amid those calls for civilian disarmament through force, there’s no better deterrent than building that proficiency at all levels, be it individual to collective violence.
Life, if you let it, will get in your way when it comes to practicing those skills that will keep you and your family alive in the worst possible scenario.Don’t let life do that! Make and schedule regular time for your dry fire and range practice. You’ll be glad you did even in the event you never have to use the skills you’ve honed. Why? Because you’ll be confident you had the skills if you needed them.
Time continues to slip by us, and according to the MSM, 7 in 10 Americans believe some really nasty, spicy times are ahead.
Train now, train often, and stack ’em deep!
In the original post, here, the point was simply made, “The ideal sidearm is the one you have in your hand.”
That’s true, in the most base terms, because if whatever you have is all you’ve got, then it is ideal when compared to having an empty hand.
When going beyond that most basic premise, the intellect should be employed to do a bit of pre-response analysis and tool capability comparison, both specification and performance wise.
Here’s a few questions that are also basic, but essential:
- What is the nature of the threat you perceive you will most likely be faced with?
- Is it a single threat, or will there be more than one, such as criminal activity coupled with self-defense against a predatory animal or simply self-defense against criminals or self-defense against predatory animals?
- Do you have, or are you capable of developing the physical strength necessary to not only operate the sidearm chosen effectively, but navigate the physical stress you will be subjected to immediately before, during, and after the threat presents itself? If not, are you willing to put yourself on a program to develop the physical attributes necessary?
- If you anticipate a multiple threat scenario as most likely, does the sidearm you are considering have the ability to hold enough rounds for the initial engagement and then be reloaded quickly for subsequent engagement prior to the cessation of the threat?
- Do you have the discipline to routinely practice techniques necessary for self-defense in both dry and ‘wet’ fire consistently?
- Do you have the equipment necessary to carry your chosen sidearm in a legal manner (until it no longer matters, if every, carrying legally is the way to do it – that way you don’t end up in prison for otherwise lawfully defending yourself or others)?
- What is the largest caliber can you comfortably and repeatedly hit a torso sized target at 10 meters (30 feet)? (Here’s story of self-defense failures against polar bears with a .22LR!)
- What are the specifications of the ammunition you plan on using? Is it capable of sufficient penetration and expansion when coupled with shot placement to stop the threat you’re faced with?
- Have you planned to use the same bullet weight for practice as well as for ‘real world’ carry and self-defense in order to experience very similar recoil and point of aim/impact?
There are many more questions you can ask along these lines – remember – we’re narrowing down the countless choices of sidearms available based on our own personal circumstances. So, should you be new to owning and training with a sidearm, will help you make educated decisions that could save your life or the lives of others.
Which sidearm, revolver or pistol, would qualify as ‘THE‘ ideal in a national contest of all the sidearms available today? That’s a tough question. Or is it?
We all have our favorites and can justify our choices to any ‘naysayer,’ right??
Smith, Sig, Glock, Beretta, Colt, Ruger, Kahr, etc, etc, etc, etc!
Mag fed, wheel gun, long barrel, short barrel, adjustable trigger, after market, etc, etc, etc, etc!
50AE, .45ACP, 10mm, 9mm, .357 Mag, 44 Mag, .38 Special, .380, 25 Auto, etc, etc, etc, etc!
And I’m sure there’d be no shortage of folks able to rank all the sidearms they’ve ever owned or shot as to their place in the ‘ideal’ line up.
What we can’t do a great majority of the time, is answer the question understandably and simply, ‘Which is THE ideal sidearm?’
And, this choice of sidearm has been mentioned countless times to countless audiences, friends, students and acquaintances before by countless people steeped in common sense, even though various authors, experts, and shooting writers fail to simply acknowledge this simple truth as they discover, debate, and judge, ‘the next IDEAL sidearm.’
Which is THE ideal sidearm?
The one that’s in your hand, loaded, and ready to employ against the threat you’re facing.
Once you know that, everything else falls into place, because no matter what your personal choice is, you’ll be doing dry fire drills, live fire, ammunition experimentation, mag change drills, and so forth, so when it IS in your hand, you’ll use it effectively, no matter who made it or what type of sidearm it happens to be.
In the first post on this rifle, here, I shot 175gr rounds from various manufactures from Berger down to Fiocchi (cost & inherent accuracy wise). This time, I’m shooting 168gr from various manufacturers: IMI, Federal, Fiocchi, and Mag Tech. Berger doesn’t make a 168gr HPBT match, at least, easily found for sale. So, I’ve got 4 match grade HPBT rounds to compare.
As you can see by reading the first report, the Berger 175’s were top notch in accuracy and quality of production. Lapua brass, match primers, superb projectiles, and bordering on ‘scary’ accuracy.
Now, to be fair, I fouled the barrel prior to my anecdotal evidence experiment, and didn’t clean the barrel inbetween brands. So, the Fiocchi had the dirtiest and warmest barrel temps to deal with. To rule that out, next phase, after the 168’s, I’m shooting the Fioochi first and the Berger’s last, with IMI (new batch of 175gr Match) ad Federal in the middle. We’ll see how that goes. Digression complete.
Something else I’m doing doing different is checking impact of the torque of the action screws on accuracy. Savage says they should be torqued between 30 and 35 inch pounds. I’ve torqued them as close as I could to 33 inch pounds. So, we’ll see what happens. If the first 3 shot groups (yeah, I know, 5 rounds is a better test and I’ll do that later) are more than an inch, I’ll adjust the torque to 35 pounds. If it shrinks it, great, if it opens up more, I’ll back it down to around 30 and see what that does.
Here’s the results as they were shot.
185 Gr Federal “Juggernaut” – HUGE disappointment as these rounds are loaded with Berger bullets and about as expensive as the Berger/Lapua 175gr below (about $1.24 per round). I really expected them to equal, if not best, the Berger brand. While not ‘bad,’ per se, the 1.5 inch large group was either a fluke or an indicator of possible QA concerns due to the lack of consistency.
Small: .416 Inches
Large: 1.5 inches
175 GRAIN HPBT MATCH COMPARISON
Berger 175 gr HPBT: The most accurate, and most expensive round in the 175gr range. You do get what you pay for! $1.24 per round, delivered.
Small: .311 inches – I’m thinking with some practice, I could easily do “one hole groups” with this ammo.
Large: .837 inches
Avg: .574 inches – Basically a half inch at 100 meters. On average. Don’t get NO better than that with factory loaded ammo!!
Prime 175 gr HPBT: I could easily stick with these due with the price point of .94 per round delivered; 30 cents per round less expensive than the Berger (which is a SUPERB round). If I were to be concerned with budget, this would be my round of choice.
Small: .540 inches
Large: 1.04 inches
Avg: .730 inches
Federal Match 175 gr HPBT: Meh. Federal Match oughta be better out of the box.
Small: .478 Inches
Large: 1.88 inches
Avg: 1.26 inches
Barnes “Precision” 175 gr HPBT: (Rounds had obvious water spots on the projectiles from improper storage – could have had something to do with performance, but all brands were purchased from the same distributor – no other problems noted whatsoever.) Will not use – actually feel I wasted the money on the test ammo.
Small: 1.61 inches
Large: 2 inches
Avg: 1.74 inches
MAGTECH ‘First Defense’ 168gr HPBT Match: If I go 168gr, these are going to be my round of choice…..these are the ‘poor man’s’ accuracy round. A real sleeper! Excellent performance all around. Average about exactly between a half in and three quarters of an inch group at 100 meters! REALLY good factory load alternative for 168’s.
SUPERB performance, especially when one notes MAGTECH is an ‘economy’ brand.
Small: .383 inches
Large: .832 inches
Avg: .670 inches
IMI 168gr Match (HPBT): Meh. I expected more out of IMI ‘sniper/match’ rounds. All 3 groups were very consistent, two of which were within .001 size differential. They do shoot the same, but the inherent accuracy wasn’t tight enough for me to consider these as my ‘go to’ round.
Small: 1.07 inches
Large: 1.30 inches
Avg: 1.22 inches
Federal 168gr Premium HPBT Match: Not happy AT all….my rifle doesn’t like this round; surprising, in that it likes other 168’s. I really thought this round would be at the top of the 168 crowd….
Small: 0.90 inches
Large: 1.5 inches
Avg: 1.2 inches
Get a load of THIS article in the NY Post about democratic candidate Bernie Sanders, aptly titled,
“Don’t Be Fooled by Bernie Sanders – he’s a die hard communist”
As the short post tells you, “If you read nothing else today…..”
As I’ve always held, “Progressive = Liberal = Socialist = Communist,” and the difference is in degree of virulence and willingness to commit violence, or have others commit violence, against anyone or anything who believes or stands for liberty, as espoused by the original experiment documented in the unanimous Declaration.
As time goes by, I am more and more grateful for my education about communism’s inherent evil and disregard for the human race. And, as Mike Vanderbeogh famously said, “A Socialist is a Communist that hasn’t found his AK-47 yet….”
This guy below? I really like his stance, and I really wish I could have met him.
Yup, here we are in Mid-Autumn. Rucking is for good weather, right? Somewhat, but you can still get in some good miles and keep yourself in good shape no matter the time of year.
The key to success in this kind of conditioning, at least in my experience, is consistency, not necessarily intensity. Intensity will come later as your body gets used to the muscle work and adapts to it, and you want to improve more. Time really is on your side here. So, take your time, don’t go beyond what your body (not your ego) tells you is working, but keep at it. It will pay off by increasing your fitness level and capabilities.
For you older ruckers (see what I did there?), something you have to ensure you do prior to starting a ruck program is to A: Get checked out by the doctor, especially your joints, arthritis levels, and so forth. If you don’t pass the physical, concentrate on what you can do without carrying a rucksack. Get the auxillary going. You can also help yourself (whether or not the doc passes you) as well by getting on a good supplement program, and no, I don’t mean the kind you can buy for $5 per thousand doses. The purer the better. The absolute minimum requirements are:
- Trace Minerals – Mine are in tablet form and I take once a day in the evening.
- Vitamin C – 4000mg a day, minimum. If I’m traveling, 6000mg. I take the gelatin pills, but have also taken the pure ascorbic acid powder in water once a day. If you try that, do it incrementally to avoid ‘explosive’ cleansing. Just sayin’
- Vitamin D3 – 12,000 IU per day, split into 2 ‘shifts’ – one in the morning, one in the evening
- CoQ10 – 300mg dose per day – heart health and all
- Salmon Oil – Wild Caught, 2 per day
- Saw Palmetto – Hey, I’m at that age where it’s necessary for prostate health….and other things.
- Cromium Picolonate – single dose per day for digestion
- Ginko Biloba – Memory, if I remember correctly
So, let’s say you’ve got the physical OK from the doc, you’ve been on some good supplements, altered your diet as described below, and you’ve also started your stretching, push ups, and ab conditioning, at a minimum, right? OK….then here we go.
Training Progression Suggestion:
- Start: No pack walks for 1/2, 1, 1 and a half, 2 and 3 miles. Again, incrementally. Don’t push, but be consistent.
- Light Pack: 1 mile walk with no more than 25 pounds X 2 days week X 2 weeks. or until you can do 25 pounds for a mile without too much trouble. If you can only start with an empty pack, then do that. Don’t overdo.
- Medium Pack walk: Up to 2 miles with 35 – 50 pound pack X 2 days week X 2 weeks or until you can do the 2 miles without too much trouble.
- Initial Heavy Pack walk: 1 mile w/heavy pack (55 – 80 pounds) X 2 days X 2 weeks. – no time limit (if 55 is your limit, then stay at 55). Again, no time limit – the goal is completion. This is simply conditioning. Or keep doing this until you can do a mile and think you could have gone farther and faster.
- Heavy Pack Conditioning: Incrementally longer walks from 1 mile to 4 miles; 20 minute miles X 1 day X 3 weeks.
- Breaks: At the onset/sign of any strained muscle used in walking, take at least a week or 10 days off. Remember, you’re in this for the duration, not some sprint contest.
- Ruck Walk Maintenance and Improvement: Random weight selection from light to heavy; intersperse running (if your body can take it – if not, don’t worry about it) with pack on for 100 meter increments (or as far as you can up to 100 meters) with at least 100 meter rest (still walking) periods. See below.
Right now, my personal ruck regimen consists of the following:
- “Heavy Day” Training: 65 – 80 pound ruck weight average – depends on the day, mood, distance, and other variables such as heat, humidity, and time available to train. It will be anywhere from 2 miles to 10, average speed 16 to 17 minute miles. The objective here is to carry a lot of weight for a long time.
- “Light Day” Training: 25 – 40 pound ruck weight average – see above for varying weight differences. Average speed objective is 15 minute miles or faster.
- “Heavy/Light Day ‘Burst’ Training: See weights and distance parameters above. The key here is to intersperse sprints of varying distances between walking intervals. It really does work. Last year, my last ‘Burst’ session was with a 65 pound pack and 4 miles, averaging 13.3 minutes per mile. You can do better!
- Clothing: Long pants (always), good boots (I will use either my Merill hikers, or my Danners GTX or combat hikers outfitted with SOLE Softec Ultra Footbeds and Vermont ‘Darn Tough’ socks), wicking t-shirt, unbuttoned OG-107 long sleeve shirt (sleeves rolled up), DTG patched baseball cap, and an OD triangular ‘ranger rag’ bandage for sweat mopping.
- Terrain: Mostly sidewalks, with some gravel, some grass, flat to gently rolling ‘ripples’ (not hills, really).
- Time of Day: Typically right before afternoon rush hour; that’s when my schedule allows up to 3 hours for ruck walking.
- First mile and a half: Warm up – not really hard and fast walking, but increasingly fast, so that at the end of the first mile and a half, legs, core, lungs and arms are warmed up.
- Second mile and a half: At per-determined land marks (typically intersections), run at a full stride for 100 meters and walk the next 100 as fast as possible. Starting out, I was able to do only 2, but as time goes on and strength and endurance came along, I’m doing 6 runs during this portion of the walk (this is burst training woven into a ruck walk).
- Third mile: Walk fast as possible; ensure hydration along the way.
- 4th mile: Run 440 meters (about a quarter mile) at ‘double time’ (not a full run; not a jog); walk the rest and recover. Simply stamina training, and only so far as my body will allow.
- 5th through next to last mile (could be 6 to 10, depending): Walk steady; attempt to keep no slower than a 15 to 17 minute mile (15 minutes for light days; 17 minutes for heavy days).
- Last mile: Decrease speed and cool down.
In the days between ruck walks I do my PT (body weight & free weight exercises).
Nutrition: No soda. Period. WAY too much sugar!! Extremely small amount bread (meaning once in a blue moon), lots of green things and other vegetable; about 1/3 protein and 1/3 natural fat. Alcohol mostly kept to weekends (and NEVER right after a workout!).
Rest: 7 – 8 hours nightly.
Hydration: Minimum of 32 ounces of purified water fortified with stabilized oxygen daily. During ruck walks, hydrate as needed, but don’t drink more than necessary. In other words, don’t go through your bladder before the ruck walk is over. After it’s done, and you’re in recovery stage, slowly hydrate until you feel like you’re good to go.
(Buy Lots of Ammo TODAY!)
From Pet’s place….WRSA, here.
Do read all the links….