My friend Pete at WRSA is on a fishin’ trip right now, so here you go.
My friend Pete at WRSA is on a fishin’ trip right now, so here you go.
Updated at AP on 15 June 18.
I’ve used this product in all seasons, hot, wet, and cold. Still have enough left in the large container to either re-impregnate the items below or to put in a few other things.
So far, everything has held out beautifully when it comes to repelling water/snow. In the rain, it takes a very heavy downpour for the material to start taking on any water (the NYCO mix is what weakens the waterproofing property because it’s for 100% cotton…). When it comes to snow, when body heat starts melting the snow, it flicks off as small water droplets leaving the material dry. All in all, staying drier keeps me warmer longer. This is a great product!
Originally published on 11 April 2017.
In the quest for staying dry as long as possible in cold, wet weather, while looking for a Goretex rejuvenator, I happened upon a product by Nikwax, called, “Cotton Proof.” Now, truth be told, I’m always skeptical of the ‘magic pill’ offered by various companies, but, as I wear a lot of Nyco things, to include field jackets and smocks, I figured, ‘what the hell, it might just be worth trying out.’ After all, cotton is known as ‘the cloth of death’ in anything but warm weather, once it gets wet.
Here’s their video on the product:
So, I go ahead and watch the video and decide to order it and give it a shot. I bought mine on Amazon.
Once it arrived, I read the directions and followed them explicitly. One thing many don’t do is to remove all soap residue from their washing machine prior to treating their items. The instructions will tell you explicitly to do just that. So, that’s what I did by running three ‘heavy load’ cycles with only hot/warm water and two ounces white vinegar in each cycle.
Once the machine was clean, I washed the items I was going to experiment with in ‘Sport Wash’ twice, as I noticed residue in the first rinse from previous washings. I’ve got some Nikwax Tech Wash on the way for next time, but hey, this was an experiment.
The directions will tell you that you don’t need to dry the items once pre-washed, and that’s true. For 3 to 4 medium & large mixed items, you need to put 7 ounces (I estimated between 3/4 of a cup and a full cup, so I could have been a smidge off) in the washer after it’s completely full. So, place the items in the washer, start the fill,, and once all items are submerged and completely under the surface, put the Cotton Proof in. Once you do that, you run the ‘heavy’ cycle as normal, to include the rinse and spin cycles.
When it’s done, put them in the dryer with no softeners on delicate/low. I put the timer on max, for 60 minutes; everything was dry in about 40.
After everything cooled, the first thing I did was take an item over to the mud sink faucet and turn on the water, letting it pour on the material.
The water bounced off for about 45 seconds with a steady stream hitting the material at a perpendicular angle before the tiniest wet spot was visible! So, I shut the water off, shook off the item, and it was completely dry again in about 90 seconds or less. Not bad for a 50/50 Nyco item! From what their instructions/adds/videos say, it works better on 100% cotton, but will suffice with nylon blends. Man does it!
So, I give this product 5 stars for those who like to walk around in the bush or rain or whatever and want to stay dry as long as possible. I’m actually looking forward to a ruck walk in the rain in the next week for a minimum of 5 miles to see how it performs.
With my motivation to save myself, as well as others, time when they might be inclined to ‘flame’ any post here or any member of the DTG staff, I offer this Public Service Announcement:
I have noticed that many proponents of ‘free speech’ conflate that to mean ‘license to say anything anywhere without consequence.’ That is a patently false perspective on the part of those who like to take license and spew venom in the comments section of any blog while claiming, “First Amendment, free speech!”
For the slow ones, the First Amendment applies to a citizen’s right to speak freely on or about political subjects with no interference from the federal government. It does not mean ‘free rein’ to say anything that comes to mind without having oneself bounced from a site.
So, here’s the cornerstone of the rules here: This is my blog. It is not a government entity. Therefore, I have no obligation to allow rude, denigrating statements by any commenter on any subject. And, I won’t.
The requirements for comments to be posted are in plain sight at the comment block.
Anyone who violates those rules are blocked from further comment. In fact, I reserve the right to not give ‘do overs.’ This ain’t kindergarten. Let your conscience be your guide.
Have a very DTG day.
Addendum: I truly appreciate those who provide thoughtful commentary even when disagreeing, most especially when it’s done with objectivity, lack of rancor, and mutual respect and courtesy. Most commenters do that – it’s the small percentage that this post is aimed at, simply because I don’t want to waste the time bouncing them or deleting their comments.
Posted at AP on 15 May 18.
Here’s a list compiled in 1958 by W. Cleon Skousen, in his book, “The Naked Communist” and revisited in the book, “The Naked Truth: The Naked Communist – Revisited,” by James C. Bowers, of 45 communist goals that must be accomplished before the US government could be overthrown from a free state and transfigured into a communist state.
Examine it. And once done, please describe any of these that have not yet been accomplished. Then judge as where we are as a people and nation. I’ll be interested to read any comments on this post.
Posted at AP on 11 Oct 18.
Before we get into this installment, I freely acknowledge that there are as many people out there who simply loathe the M16/AR15/M4/M4gery platform and would rather throw rocks at an enemy than use one, as recently evidenced by comments not making the cut here (I don’t do vitriol) or seen at other sites posting the first installment of the series.
There are also those who really, ‘don’t know what they don’t know’ about continuous product improvement, and honestly don’t care to compare/contrast older versions with newer versions of anything, and operate on what is known as, “The Law of Primacy,” which basically means, “first learned, longest remembered, revered, trusted, etc (put in your own descriptor..) I actually was in this category for 20 years after retiring from active duty, so much so that I moved to the 7.62NATO round in a M14 type rifle and didn’t consider an AR until about 6 or 7 years ago. Of course, a lot has changed for the better since even then.
So, if you’re one of those who reacts in an unhealthy way at the mention of ‘AR’, don’t bother reading on, as all this will most likely do is raise your BP, your ire, and possibly cause you to violate our comment standards when/if you comment.
For the rest of the readership, as you saw in Part 1, the M-16 and its civilian cousin, the AR15 (exception to the designation was the fully automatic USAF AR15) started out with a whimper instead of a bang. It took some time for Colt to clear up the problems being faced on the battle field due to poor powder replacements in the round, no cleaning equipment, no solvents, and extreme malfunctions solely due to those reasons.
However, once Colt got on the ball, the problems were fixed and the rifle and carbine kept being put through Continuous Product Improvement evolutions to became the most loved/hated platform in the US. I was weaned on the USAF AR15 slab side (my first issue rifle had the 3 prong flash suppressor on it). We had no forward assist available, but the thing was, we didn’t need it. Colt had fixed the issue, so we were fine with what we were given, not that we actually knew what had been improved (E-2’s and 3’s aren’t the most informed people in the military….just sayin’), we just knew it fired when we pulled the trigger and hit what we were aiming at to the maximum range we were allowed to shoot (usually 200 meters or less, most often 100 meters). Most of us, including me, hated it though, because we were trained by men who’d used the first generation in Vietnam that had problems. We all lusted for the M-14, which we would NEVER see as a general issue rifle.
My personal dislike for the AR carried over throughout my career, even though I used another variant or two, specifically, the GAU-5A and the ‘Colt Commando.’ Those were, at least, more maneuverable and as we were always getting in and out of vehicles (trucks, jeeps, cars (armored and standard), a lot easier to use and control, especially if you were a dog handler (like I was for 3 years) or were working a support weapons crew, such as the 81mm Mortar (also like I was for 5 years). Great also for vehicle patrols and other tasks. The pic below also shows how we adapted the slings in order to carry in more of a ready position. We taped our unused sling swivels, though….noise and all that.
When I retired from active service, I decided to go with .30 caliber weapons for my personal use and for competition. So, in a short time, I had an ’03A3, a nice Garand, and a really nice pre-ban Springfield M1A (later sold and replaced with a Fulton Armory refurbed Norinco with all TRW parts except for the receiver). Used them for 20 years. Below photo of yours truly with his Fulton Armory reworked Norinco.
Then, age started to catch up to me, and I knew my days of running around with a 10 pound rifle and 13 magazines of 7.62NATO were numbered. So, all the .30’s eventually got sold, and I listened to some folks talk about how much more improved the AR was. I was hearing things about 600 meter capabilities, super-stiff barrels in 16, 18 & 20 inch lengths, double-chrome lining, Nickel Boron coated BCG’s, and some superb triggers.
Usually, what sounds to good to be true actually is too good to be true.
In this case, the upgrades and improvements were, in fact, true, and the AR’s I own now run circles around what I was issued, and, in the case of the Colt SP-1 still out there for sale for collectors when they can find one. I like the SP-1 for nostalgia’s sake; the one I’ve fired hits where it should hit, but it is limited by the barrel twist, the sights, bullet weight, and issue trigger. But it is the closest thing to what I used during my first couple tours on active duty, save for the lack of select fire. In comparison, the AR below is an earlier iteration I had for a couple years; bought it right before the first panic in ’09 for about $1300 and watched it go up in value to over $3,000 almost over night. I decided to go with the ‘Canadian’ influence of a retractable stock but a full length 20 inch barrel. I wanted to squeeze the most performance possible out of the 5.56NATO round. It had a Nickel Boron upper, NiB BCG and bolt, 20 in chrome lined FN barrel in a 1:8 twist (it ate everything pretty well), Gisele trigger, Magpul everything, Vortex flash suppressor, fold down BUIS, and an ACOG. I regret selling that one. That particular rifle is shown in the feature image at the top of this post.
What’s available for purchase now? Almost endless accouterments as well as configurations. I’ll list just a few of the improvements. Yes, some of them are expensive, but I figure you get what you pay for, and I know my AR’s are pretty much bomb proof. They also fall into the definition of ‘practical combat carbine.’ Also available is the very popular AR ‘pistol.’ They’re kinda neat for carry in a car, so long as you have a CPL. Most states won’t allow a rifle to be carried loaded in your vehicle, but, and AR pistol may be, so long as you have your CPL. Laws vary, so check out your own state’s requirements.
Here’s some of the upgrades available that I’ve chosen for my latest iteration, one that I’ve had for about 3 years:
All in all, the newest iteration I own, and the ones available from quality manufacturers have long outdistanced what was originally issued and available to the civilian market.
Are there better platforms out there? Sure, but you’d be hard pressed to find a more versatile platform with as many different configurations, optics, furniture, ammo choices, not to mention cost reductions and availability. Nicely appointed AR’s are going for $500, sometimes less, and the quality isn’t half bad.
Well, that about does it. Hope you enjoyed the series.
Posted at AP on 2 Oct 18.
“Ch-ch-ch-changes…..Time May Change Me, but I can’t Change Time…”
Interesting start to a new post, huh? Kinda sorta ‘Bowie-like’ but different….as you can see by the featured photo, this is going to be a comparison contrast with some history thrown in regarding the quintessential American, ‘Go-To’ rifle, the AR-15.
Let’s start out with a little known trivia fact: Which US military branch had a fully automatic version of the M16 actually designated as the AR-15?
Drum roll: The US Air Force. The USAF chose Colt’s Model 604 and had it designated the AR-15. Same thing as the M16 feature image above (not A1), complete with select fire capability but with all the wonderful improvements (to that time) that Colt had made to ensure reliability in combat conditions.
From what the records indicate, once powder issue had been resolved and fouling was no longer a killer in the field, and the buffer spring had been strengthened, the forward assist was no longer necessary. We always thought we were being short changed with the AR-15 version, but in all the time I was in the field in swampy, wet, winter, and dry conditions, never once did my issued AR-15 fail to go into battery when firing, so apparently, Colt did fix things. They even got rid of the three prong flash suppressor that could, but didn’t normally, get caught on local vegetation. More often it was used to pop open ‘C Rats’ or ammo cases (the violator getting caught became miserable for a few weeks), and then, ‘poof,’ all our rifles were either retrofitted with ‘jungle tips’ (original reference by USAF Security Forces in the 70’s) properly known as ‘bird cage’ flash suppressors or returned to Depot after new ones had arrived.
Then there’s the ‘forward assist’. The originals on the M16A1 actually fit the thumb as opposed to the ‘push button’ type seen today. And, it was necessary, from both a physical point of view (the buffer springs weren’t quite strong enough to deal with the crap encountered in the bush) and there was a more important psychological perspective to deal with: way too many GI’s were afraid of having to break down their rifle because it wouldn’t go into battery during a fire fight. Even with the problem fixed, the ‘A1’ was a good idea if only for confidence and a ‘make sure’ tool. So now, everyone who’s anyone won’t buy a M-forgery or full length rifle without a forward assist. Every single upper I’ve purchased has one ‘De Rigueur.’ You simply cannot find an AR lower without one (which is kind of ironic, in that buffer springs now are available that when compared to the older ones are on steroids!) At least I haven’t been able to do so. Basically, it’s an unnecessary feature that will never be used in earnest, which is to ensure that a gunky, muddy, debris encumbered bolt carrier group will seat so the weapon may fire. All one needs for this rifle to be reliable is a good, strong buffer spring, and routine cleaning, and it won’t fail. Maybe your mileage has varried/will vary, but I’m pretty confident in what my AR’s have that makes the Forward Assist obsolete. Colt had fixed that , too, in the USAF’s AR15, and that’s why the USAF didn’t see them for quite a long time (from what I understand, current issue has them – most likely an economy of scale thing….cheaper to make them with them, than make a separate run without them).
Ok…on to basic history:
Military problems with the AR (M-series) in Vietnam:
By 1967, the M16A1 was issued. Improvements included:
The powder wasn’t changed, though, until 1970, to one that was much less prone to foul the weapon to the point of despair.
The rest, as they say, is history. I was asked on the range one day not long ago if I was using the civilian version of what I used on active duty. My answer was something along the lines of: “Not hardly. This thing is a ‘space gun’ compared to what we had.” And it’s true. There have been so many improvements to the basic AR platform that comparison can be likened to a World War II Thunderbolt compared to a F-16 fighter.
When one compares even the improved version of the civilian model, the Colt SP-1 (the one I owned for a short time was made in 1976), is almost prehistoric compared to my 16″, Nitiride 1:8 twist, NiB Bolt & BCG, flat top, 6 position Magpul stock, Gisele trigger, Primary Amrs optic mounted, 62gr shooting, MOA capable/performing (depending on the ammo…) carbine. Not. The. Same. Animal.
I like the SP-1 a lot, generally for nostalgia, and if I find another example reasonably priced, will buy it again. It shoots well, and is a great collector’s piece as most are still in great shape and made by “Colt Patented Firearms”, while sporting the ‘prancing pony’ logo. If there wasn’t anything else for me to grab, I’d take one and have confidence in its performance within its limitations. On the other hand, if I have my ‘druthers on grabbing something for a problem, I’m reaching for my modern carbine that has every possible improvement to the platform in the way of reliability, accuracy, and durability. No question.
Next installment: Comparison of the current practical combat carbine.
Updated at AP on 21 Sep 18.
On this installment, we’ll look at what would be Level III, or the ‘Existence Load.’ Please note that brands are not what is being recommended here (everyone seems to have their own favorites); only the category/type of item. For purposes of this post, a pistol is a pistol, a fixed blade knife is a fixed blade knife, etc. Most importantly, your mileage may vary on what you need as Level 1 in your own AO. Remember to not over do on item selection for any of the levels. You have to carry it all….that said, this is what we recommend for baseline gear/equipment leveling:
Level 1 Contents in no particular order (and some are not included in the pictures):
As you can see from the second picture below, it all goes very nicely in the dry bag, and its scale/weight will do very nicely in a cargo or even a large shirt pocket. Knife goes on the belt, and the pistol goes into an appendix carry in this case. If you use a belt holster for your pistol, make sure to balance your belt with the pistol on one side and the knife on the other.
Level 2 Contents in no particular order:
Level 3 Contents:
These are what old-schooler’s refer to as ‘Existence Load’ items. Again, in no particular order:
Add what you need, but the trick here is to have what you really need in the Existence Load, but not over pack, and BE ABLE TO CARRY FOR AT LEAST 5 MILES what you have without falling over, and then still being able to set up a RON (Remain Over Night) location when you get to your way point.
And there you have it. The image below shows a NPT member with all Levels mounted. Again, these photos are for demonstration, and therefore, no field clothing is being used by the model.
We’ve all got our SHTF set ups and they most likely include, our harness, our multitude of ammo and mags, and the kitchen sink. And, if we’ve done it right, we’ve bought the highest quality we can afford, meaning it might not be ‘Top Shelf’ equipment, but it’s not going to fall apart with rough use, either.
One thing that many don’t have is an “instant Response Kit” that might entail basic NPT* member requirements for, say, 24 to 48 hours in the event of an imminent threat or actual attack. In essence, a ‘grab and go’ set up that will see you through the initial stages of a ‘bad thing’ until you can either get your standard SHTF existence load and equipment. Necessarily so, this equipment won’t be at the top line of expenditures, either, and surplus equipment might be the way to go.
So, for discussion, what might that look like?
Again, this set up should be of reasonable quality to be used in scenario based training and the real McCoy if necessary, but would only have an expected life that would be much more protracted than the really good stuff you’ve made your ‘SHTF I’m not coming back’ set up from.
This example is for an AR set up because it’s ubiquitous, and these days, really inexpensive to get a decent copy. So….you 7.62NATO fans are going to have to find something similar that takes your mags and spare ammo, if you decide to go with the concept.
Now nothing says your ‘instant response’ or “IR” set up can’t actually BE your SHTF set up, so long as it meets the criteria. If you’ve got your current SHTF set up in modules, where you can easily pick up something and leave some other thing behind instantly, than you may be good to go. That means what you might consider ‘Line 1’ items must be contained in the set up. Pistol, spare mags, knife, mini-survival kit have to be on it, unless you actually have them already in your pants/on your person when you grab the IR kit.
Remember, the definition I’m going to use here for an ‘IR Kit’ means exactly that: INSTANT RESPONSE. No sorting, no digging through stuff, no anything save grabbing your AR and your IR Kit and going out the door.
The IR Kit is comprised of 2 modules that include anything determined to be necessary to operate independently of a support base/group for up to 72 hours maximum that when donned, needs nothing added to complete the set up.
Module 1: Zero’d AR with one full magazine – it should be painted to break up the shape and outline, with a pallet of colors that match most conditions of your area.
Module 2: IR Kit consisting of the following components:
The primary objective is to have the harness set up so that everything you need to ‘go now’ for anything extremely short term up to a 48 hour stint away from your primary existence and fighting load is at your fingertips. This could also serve as a superb ‘mobile’ set up that one might put in his/her vehicle prior to going on a long trip. 2 items: Rifle & IR Kit. Not bad.
Once I get mine together, I’ll be doing some experimenting on wearing it and see how the basic idea seems to fit.
Updated at AP on 21 July 18.
What is gear layering? As described in other posts here and on other sites, such as Mason Dixon Tactical, American Partisan, and WRSA, gear layering is arranging equipment in lines, layers, and levels, to achieve the same thing. It is a technique for prioritizing the carriage of the most essential gear for the specific job over gear that may still be important, but not as high on the priority list as other items. Many sources divided their levels of gear into 3 or 4 layers. DTG recommends and uses the 3 layer approach. Why address it again? Because it works!
A quick description:
Level 1: Gear that is essential to survival and ALWAYS on your person, even when you’re sleeping (remember, you will fight like you train, and if a SHTF situation presents itself, you no longer have the luxury of ‘total comfort’.) If all else fails and an individual loses their harness and ruck, they still will have their level one items with them to help them survive until they can reach support.
Level 2: Gear is for NPT security tasks and is on your person the significant majority of the time. Only items that are needed for conducting continuing security tasks are carried on this level with respect to the SMOLES packing concept. Following this methodology, the NPT member stays light and has the freedom of movement essential to do their job.
Level 3: Gear is comprised of sustainment items, which serves as one’s “home away from home.” Usually, this is a “patrol pack”, ruck or combination of both. Items at this level are needed for task completion while on a job, or for long term survivability in the field. If in contact with a threat, more than likely this level is shed so that the NPT member can maneuver more easily to counteract the threat. So, there is a possibility that items in this layer may be lost in contact. On the other hand, if the NPT is successful in its task, the NPT members can always retrieve their Level 3 gear.
Here are a few visual examples of gear that layered for an NPT member:
Example Level 1: Here you can see a NPT member wearing a big knife, a pistol, (and the bulge in the pocket is a survival kit). He’s always got these on.
Example Level 2: Here you can see a NPT team member’s Load Bearing Harness. It contains all the necessary items to conduct security tasks in a SHTF/WROL situation. The harness weighs about 25 pounds complete with all equipment.
Example Level 3: Option 1: As you can see here, the level 3 gear is a “patrol pack” or small ruck, dedicated to sustainment items for a short trip in the field. The pack weighs about 22 lbs loaded with the items we recommend for general purpose carry.
Example Level 3 – Option 2: And lastly we have a large ruck in combination with the small ruck as the full load out for one’s home away from home in the field. Together they weigh about 65 lbs.
So there you have it, an overview for gear layering. It’s not a complicated concept, but it does help one prioritize their gear for the purpose it was intended. The layer concept also makes sure you have your “oh crap” tools always on hand.
In the next post we will take a look at general NPT security member kit contents in each layer.
Updated at AP on 9 July 18.
Part 1: Load Bearing Equipment (LBE) Selection
There are many gear options out there today for one’s fighting load and sustainment ruck. As our overall goal is to show the NPT how to protect their neighborhood in the event of disaster, we want to do this as efficiently as possible. One way to achieve efficiency is to provide information that equates to much less time needs to be spent worrying over which LBE set up or ruck is better and using that time instead for training and study.
As you most likely know, a person can spend anywhere from a few hundred bucks setting up LBE and rucks with military surplus items to upwards of several thousand on the latest and greatest ‘special-ops’ equipment in the latest and greatest camouflage pattern. It’s safe to say that American preppers virtually have the greatest availability and choices of military/paramilitary gear in the world, and as neat as that is, it does tend to complicate gear selection for people who are new to the point of becoming overwhelming. Even when asking, “expert” advice, the tendency is to see the advice given based upon personal tastes versus objective analysis based upon the specified purpose for the selection.
So, when you’re helping the new NPT member to get equipped, you, as the NPT leader, must be able to quickly outline the best return on investment of potential gear selections so the new member can get focused on training as soon as possible.
With that said, DTG recommends a “general purpose” approach when selecting gear. The definition is offered for clarity, as we try to stick to the definition closely in 98% of all circumstances.
gen•er•al-pur•pose / adjective
1. Having a range of potential uses; not specialized in function or design. “a general-purpose detergent”
For the requirements of the NPT, general purpose load bearing equipment should facilitate “normal” (that is, ‘routine’) NPT security tasks. To be considered ‘General Purpose, the LBE you choose should have the following attributes:
Remember, what works for elite soldiers doing specialized missions might be different than the day to day gear needs of Mom and Pop providing security in their NPA while going about daily chores. Available cash may also be a constraining factor when it comes to choosing gear. To preclude the loss of precious time and money when NPT members experiment through trial and error what works best in most situations, and for what cost, the NPT leader should provide all the lessons learned possible so the ‘noobs’ don’t have to go through all the things the veteran NPT leader or member did. Remember, unless Mom and Pop are in superb physical shape, they might have a hard time with 12 mags hanging off their tummy trying to get into a prone firing position, or low crawling to cover after being encouraged to get a chest rig or plate carrier set up. (An aside, helping Mom and Pop do reasonable PT helps, too, but you, NPT Leader, need to be busting your ass on PT.)
How do you get the ‘most bang for your buck’ in relation to time saved when learning about gear?
Have new NPT members get some training in SUT with one of the trainers or schools offered by writers on this site. Their courses are structured to show students, through the performance, if gear is incorrectly set up or can be tweaked a bit.
When you’re home, if appropriate to your AO (meaning you won’t bring a stack down on you after a terrified neighbor calls the local PD on 911) wear your LBE around the house doing normal tasks, yard work, etc. Nothing teaches you how to wear your gear like performing daily chores or the occasional SUT drill!
Any time you attend the training, check out how the instructors set up their gear. If it seems to work, and it’s possible for you to mimic their set up, test it when you train with your group or family. If you don’t understand why something is set up a particular way, ask! Remember, the instructors have tailored their LBE set ups used during their experience in the military to that of citizens training to defend their families. Pick their brains; they know what works and what doesn’t work so well. If you have a question, drop them a line.
DTG’s LBE and Ruck Suggestions:
General Purpose Option 1: “I have an extremely limited budget, but need all the quality I can find!”:
Get an ALICE H-harness/web belt and an Enhanced ALICE Large Ruck. My good friend JC Dodge provides some great advice on modernizing the ALICE: Get a CFP-90 patrol pack to add to the top of the ruck. With mag pouches and canteen’s, etc, you’re looking at about $200 give or take, maybe less depending on what you find or where you shop. Example: In the not too distant past, I was at a flea market and found 4 M1956 canvas M-14 pouches for a buck each. ALICE frames for $20 (US, not knock offs.) Below you can see two typical ‘old school’ examples that still work very, very well.
General Purpose Option 2: “I’ve got some cash” option:
Get an Eagle Industries RLCS harness (ebay $100 new, $50 to $75 used) with molle pouches ($15 ea) and a USMC FILBE ruck with attachable small patrol pack ($325 new). You’re looking at about $400 to $600 after pouches for your LBE, if you want to go the surplus route. I’ve had a set up very similar to the one below for the last 5 years – haven’t had an issue with it, and I routinely ruck. The harness is bomb proof, and it will accommodate flotation pads if you think you’ll need to cross a river.
*Note these estimations do not include the cost to fill your LBE or Ruck with actual field gear.
The next post will be on gear layering. The idea is not to get into all the supporting theory behind layering as much as it is to give a good example for general purpose gear placement so that (if you like it), you can show an example to new people how/where to wear their gear for security tasks.